Hardanger is usually stitched with two different weights of thread. A larger thread is used for kloster blocks, blanket stitch and satin stitch designs. A smaller thread is used for needle weaving and filling stitches. Traditionally white thread is used on white fabric, but any colours can be used.
While some people are very reluctant to try Hardanger Embroidery, it can easily be mastered if you have some patience and can count! “Traditional Hardanger Embroidery is characterized by satin stitch blocks (Klostersaum) formed into geometric designs, and the cutting and withdrawal of threads within these shapes.
However, modern Hardanger fabric is an evenweave cotton material woven with pairs of threads, typically 22 pairs per linear inch in both directions, referred to as '22-count'. The weave gives a squared appearance to the fabric (similar to Aida cloth ), with distinct holes, making it easy to count and work on.
The word “Hardanger” means four things-a type of embroidery, a place, a fabric, and a violin/fiddle used in traditional Norwegian music.. Pronunciation depends on the region. Most of the folks at the Nordic Needle say “Har-dong-ger) except for Debi who is from Kansas who says “Har-dang-ger.” One resource book even suggested “Har-dun-ga”.
Hardanger fabric is a woven fabric made of pairs of thread in plain weave (over and under). The pairs of threads are treated as single threads in the embroidery. It is a 22 count fabric (22 threads per inch) and is easily available. It most commonly comes in white and cream, but it can be found in other colours if you are willing to look around for
Linen is nice to work with, comes in a large variety of colours and is easy to find. It is also a plain weave fabric. The most important thing to remember is that you need even weave linen made for embroidery. Many fabric shops sell linen that is used in dressmaking and other sewing that is made with much smaller threads. You can see the difference
Aida is an even weave cloth that is most commonly used for cross stitch. The threads are woven to create little squares in the cloth that are perfect for holding the stitches. Although at first glance, it looks similar to hardanger, it has a very different weave. The threads in the squares are meshed together, rather than having a plain weave. The
The most popular choice of thread is perle cotton. This is a non-stranded thread, so you just use it as it is, not like embroidery floss. Perle cotton comes in standardized sizes, so it’s easy to match to your fabric. It is usually sold in skeins or small balls. Perle cotton that is manufactured by large companies is usually labelled with a colour
Beyond regular perle cotton, there are beautiful hand dyed and variegated threads with similar weights. These can be used beautifully in hardanger. My favourites are from The Caron Collection, but there are many choices. Check with your local embroidery store for options. epidastudio.com
The most important consideration for choosing thread is that it matches the weight of the fabric you are using. The stitches in kloster blocks should lay snugly and parallel. They shouldn’t be squished together and overlapping, but they shouldn’t have space in between them. epidastudio.com
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