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International Journal of Pharma Research & Review, May 2015; 4(5):45-51 ISSN: 2278-6074

Nikita Wanjari et.al, IJPRR 2015; 4(5) 45

Review Article

A Review on Latest Trend of Cosmetics-Cosmeceuticals

Nikita Wanjari, *Jyotsna Waghmare

Department of Oil, Oleo-chemicals and Surfactants Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal

Parekh Marg, Mumbai-400019, India.

ABSTRACT

Now days a new hot topic in the cosmetic industry is 'Cosmeceuticals', which is the fastest growing

segment of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are the future generation of skin care. They

are the advances made within the world of dermatological products and the new backbone in skincare.

All cosmeceuticals claim to contain functional ingredients with either therapeutic, disease-fighting or

healing properties. The term Cosmeceutical was coined by Raymond Reed but the concept was further

pharmaceutical hybrids, intended to enhance the beauty through ingredients that provide additional

health-related function or benefit. That means they are applied topically as cosmetics, but contain

between personal care products and pharmaceuticals; also Cosmeceuticals are the fastest growing

segment in skin care market. There is no regulatory category for Cosmeceuticals; hence this review tries

to understand regulatory scenario as well the difference between drug and cosmetics is enlightened. The

paper is an earnest endeavor to evaluate a Cosmeceutical product that claims a beneficial physiologic

effect. This review paper is to give recent knowledge about the latest trend of cosmetic industry-

Cosmeceuticals.

Keywords: Cosmeceuticals, cosmeceutical chemistry, regulatory aspects, skin cosmeceutical

Received 3 April 2015 Received in revised form 22 April 2015 Accepted 24 April 2015

*Address for correspondence:

Jyotsna Waghmare,

Department of Oil, Oleo-chemicals and Surfactants Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Nathalal

Parekh Marg, Mumbai-400019, India.

E-mail: jt.waghmare@ictmumbai.edu.in, jyotsna.waghmare@gmail.com, nikitawanjari97@gmail.com

INTRODUCTION

Cosmeceuticals are future generation of skin

care. They are the advances made within the world of dermatological products and the new backbone in skincare. Cosmeceutical are typically cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and beauty of skin. Some cosmeceuticals are naturally-derived while others are synthetic, but all contain functional ingredients with either therapeutic, disease-fighting or healing properties. Raymond Reed, Founder of U.S. Society of cosmetic chemist, created popularized by American dermatologist. the Egyptians were the first to recognize the health-giving properties of cosmetics. The made frequent to several cosmeceutical-type products. A favorite formulation was using honey and milk that claimed to help cure skin diseases.

For many medieval Arab physicians and

their European counterparts, there were no distinctions among cosmetics, fragrance and herbal medicines. Their research and development work covered all these disciplines simultaneously. Separation of the cosmetic and toiletries, industry from medicines, and pharmacy was 19th century.

This phenomenon occurred when the

modern pharmaceutical industry was first developed and the first government statue regulation the sale of drugs was drafted. The role of cosmetic as a positive healing aid by developing formulations to improve the appearance of UV- damaged and wrinkled

International Journal of Pharma Research & Review, May 2015; 4(5):45-51 ISSN: 2278-6074

Nikita Wanjari et.al, IJPRR 2015; 4(5) 46

skin using retinoic acid as the active ingredient [1].

The concept of beautifying is not restricted

to women alone, even men have become advertisements of many anti-wrinkle and fairness cream are aimed at men. Key cosmeceuticals used by men include hair growth products, anti-aging, antiperspirant, most commonly used by women include anti-wrinkles, anti-cellulite, hair removal, tanning skin whitening, antioxidants, and cell recovery products [1].

CLASSIFICATION OF COSMECEUTICALS:

The term Cosmeceuticals can be used with

different terms. For all the terms the definition remains the same i.e.

Cosmeceuticals formulations which are

neither pure cosmetics, like lipsticks, nor pure drug, like corticosteroids. It is a hybrid category of products lying on the spectrum between drugs and cosmetics. The various terms by which Cosmeceuticals can be substituted are active cosmetics, nutricosmetics, performance cosmetics, functional cosmetics, and dermaceuticals.

Ccosmeceuticals basically can be classified

into following categories:

1) Skin cosmeceutical product- Antiaging

creams, Mosturizres, Facial products and

Lotions.

2) Hair cosmeceutical product- Gel and

creams, Hair colorants and Dyes, Shampoos,

Growth Stimulators and Conditioners.

3) Others- Lipstick, Nail polish, Toothpaste

and Powders.

SKIN COSMECEUTICALS

Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products

that have medicinal or drug-like benefits are able to affect the biological functioning of skin owing to type of functional ingredients they contain. These are skin-care products that go beyond coloring and adorning the skin. Such products improve the functioning/texture of the skin by encouraging collagen growth by combating harmful effects of free radicals, thus maintaining keratin structure in good condition and making the skin healthier.

OLAY vitamin line, which includes vitamins

A, C, D, E, selenium, and lycopene,

pycnogenol plus zinc and copper, is a well- known skin care line. The treatment of aging skin with a cream containing a hormone such as estrogen results in a fresh appearance with a rejuvenating effect. Kuno and Matsumoto had patented an external agent for the skin comprising an extract prepared from olive plants as a skin- beautifying component, in particular, as an anti-aging component for the skin and/or a whitening component. Dry emollient preparation containing monounsaturated

Jojoba esters was used for Cosmeceutical

purpose. Martin utilized plant extract of genus Chrysanthemum in a cosmetic composition for stimulating skin and/or hair pigmentation [2].

COMMONLY USED SKIN COSMECEUTICALS

1) Hydroxy Acid: Hydroxy acid also referred

to as fruit acids; they are a common ingredient found in many cosmeceutical products. Examples include citric acid, malic acid, and lactic acid. AHAs improve skin texture and reduce the signs of aging by promoting cell seeding in the outer layers of the epidermis and by restoring hydration.

One hypothesis suggests that AHAs reduce

the calcium ion concentration in the epidermis and, through chelation, remove the ions from the cell adhesions, which are thereby disrupted, resulting in desquamation. This is enhanced by cleavage of the endogenous stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme on the catherins, which are otherwise protected from proteolysis by conjugation with calcium ions.

The resulting reduction of the calcium ion

levels tends to promote cell growth and slow cell differentiation, thus giving rise to younger looking [3].

2) Botanicals: Botanicals comprise the

largest category of cosmeceutical additives found into the market place today. Some botanicals that may benefit the skin include green tea extract, ferulic acid, and grape seed extract.

Ferulic acid: This compound, which is

derived from plants, is considered to be a potent antioxidant, and has been shown to provide photo protection to skin.

Furthermore, when ferulic acid is combined

with vitamins C and E, the product has been shown to provide substantial UV protection for human skin. Moreover, Murray et al. reported that because its mechanism of action is different from sunscreens, ferulic

International Journal of Pharma Research & Review, May 2015; 4(5):45-51 ISSN: 2278-6074

Nikita Wanjari et.al, IJPRR 2015; 4(5) 47

acid could be expected to supplement the sun protection provided by sunscreens.

Grape Seed Extract: This botanical has been

established as a potent antioxidant and has been shown to speed wound contraction and closure. Topical application of grape seed extract has also been shown to enhance the sun protection factor in humans [3].

3) Depigmenting Agent: Skin-lightening

agents added to product formulations have become increasingly popular and such products are in demand. Common depigmenting ingredients include hydroquinone, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, and licorice extract (glabridin).

Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone has been the

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[PDF] Searches related to research paper about skin care products filetype:pdf

What is the current research in skin care?

Why publish in the Journal of skincare research?

What is in Section 3 of the skin care research paper?

What are skin protectant products?

Review Article

Nikita Wanjari, *Jyotsna Waghmare

Parekh Marg, Mumbai-400019, India.

ABSTRACT

Cosmeceuticals.

Jyotsna Waghmare,

Parekh Marg, Mumbai-400019, India.

INTRODUCTION

Cosmeceuticals are future generation of skin

For many medieval Arab physicians and

This phenomenon occurred when the

The concept of beautifying is not restricted

CLASSIFICATION OF COSMECEUTICALS:

The term Cosmeceuticals can be used with

Cosmeceuticals formulations which are

Ccosmeceuticals basically can be classified

1) Skin cosmeceutical product- Antiaging

Lotions.

2) Hair cosmeceutical product- Gel and

Growth Stimulators and Conditioners.

3) Others- Lipstick, Nail polish, Toothpaste

SKIN COSMECEUTICALS

Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products

OLAY vitamin line, which includes vitamins

A, C, D, E, selenium, and lycopene,

Jojoba esters was used for Cosmeceutical

COMMONLY USED SKIN COSMECEUTICALS

1) Hydroxy Acid: Hydroxy acid also referred

One hypothesis suggests that AHAs reduce

The resulting reduction of the calcium ion

2) Botanicals: Botanicals comprise the

Ferulic acid: This compound, which is

Furthermore, when ferulic acid is combined

Grape Seed Extract: This botanical has been

3) Depigmenting Agent: Skin-lightening

Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone has been the