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Giftof

ThomasF.O'Connell

Classof1950

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in2011withfundingfrom

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OFCHAMPAGNE

WITHNOTESON

THEOTHERSPARKLINGWINESOFFRANCE.

BYHENRYVI£ETELLY,

'FACTSABOUTSHERRY,'ETC.

ILLUSTRATEDWITH350ENGRAVINGS.

LONDON:

VIZETELLY&CO.,42CATHERINESTREET,STRAND.

SCRIBNER&>WELFORD,NEWYORK.

1882.
it

LONDON

ROBSONANDSONS,PRINTERS,PANCRASROAD,N.W

JN101986B0ST0MCOLLEGELIBRARY

CHESTNUTHill,MA02167

PREFACE.

hehaspaidfrequentvisitstotheChampagne - toitsvineyardsandvendangeoirs,and turntoadvantageousaccount. form.

St.Leonards-on-Sea,February1882.

CONTENTS.

PartI.

I.

EarlyRenownoftheChampagneWines.

PAOKThevineinGaul - Domitian'sedicttouprootit - PlantationofvineyardsunderProbus - EarlyvineyardsoftheCham-

pagne - RavagesbytheNortherntribesrepulsedforatimebytheConsulJovinus - St.Remiandthebaptismof Clovis - St.Remi'svineyards - SimultaneousprogressofChristianityandthecultivationofthevine - Thevine afavouritesubjectofornamentinthechurchesoftheChampagne - Thecultureofthevineinterrupted,onlyto berenewedwithincreasedardour - Earlydistinctionbetween'VinsdelaRiviere'and'VinsdelaMontagne' Aprelate'scounselrespectingtheproperwinetodrink - TheChampagnedesolatedbywar - PopeUrbanII.a formerCanonofReimsCathedral - HispartialityforthewineofAy - Bequestsofvineyardstoreligious establishments - Criticalecclesiasticaltopers - ThewineoftheChampagnecausespoetstosingandrejoice 'LaBatailledesVins' - WinesofAuvillerandEspemaileBacheler......... II.

Century.

CoronationsatReimsandtheirattendantbanquets - Wineflowsprofuselyattheseentertainments - Thewine-tradeof

Reims - PresentsofwinefjomtheReimsmunicipality - Cultivationofthevineyardsabandonedafterthebattle

ofPoitiers - OctroileviedonwineatReims - CoronationofCharlesV. - ExtensionoftheChampagnevineyards - Abundanceofwine - VisittoReimsoftheroyalsotWenceslausofBohemia - TheEtapeauxVinsatReims

IncreasedconsumptionofbeerduringtheEnglishoccupationofthecity - TheMaidofOrleansatReims - The vineyardsandwine-tradealikesuffer - LouisXI.iscrownedatReims - Freshtaxesuponwinefollowedbythe Mique-Maquerevolt - TheRemoisthevictimsofpillagingfoesandextortionatedefenders - TheChampagne vineyardsattackedbynoxiousinsects - CoronationofLouisXII. - FrancoisPremier,theEmperorCharlesV., BluffKingHal,andLeotheMagnificentallpartialtothewineofAy - MaryQueenofScotsatReims - State keptbytheopulentandlibertineCardinalofLorraine - Brusquet,theCourtFool - Decreaseintheproduction ofwinearoundReims - Giftsofwinetonewly-crownedmonarchs - Newrestrictionsonvinecultivation - The wineoftheChampagnecrownedatthesametimeasLouisXIII. - Regulationpriceforwineestablishedat R"ims - ImpostsleviedonthevineyardsbytheFrondeurs - ThecountryravagedaroundReims - Sufferingsof thepeasantry - PresentsofwinetoMarshalTnrenneandCharlesII.ofEngland - PerfectionoftheChampagne winesduringthereignofLouisXIV. - St.Evremond'shighopinionofthem. - Othercontemporarytestimonyin theirfavour - TheArchbishopofReims'sniggardlygifttoJamesII.ofEngland - ApoetkilledbyChampagne III.

Theancientsacquaintedwithsparklingwines - TendencyofChampagnewinestoeffervescenotedatanearlyperiod - ObscurityenvelopingthediscoveryofwhatwenowknowassparklingChampagne - TheRoyalAbbeyof

Hantvillers - LegendofitsfoundationbySt.NivardandSt.Berchier - Itsterritorialpossessionsandvineyards ThemonksthegreatviticulturietsoftheMiddleAges - DomPerignon - Hemarrieswinesdifferingincharacter

VICONTENTS.

PAGE - Hisdiscoveryofsparklingwhitewine - Heisthefirsttousecorkstobottles - Hissecretforclearingthe winerevealedonlytohissuccessorsFrerePhilippeandDomGrossart - ResultofDomPerignon'sdiscoveries ThewineofHautvillerssoldat1000livresthequeue - DomPerignon'smemorialintheAbbey-Church - Wine flavouredwithpeaches - Theeffervescenceascribedtodrugs,totheperiodofthemoon,andtotheactionofthe sapinthevine - Thefameofsparklingwinerapidlyspreads - TheVindePerignonmakesitsappearanceat theCourtoftheGrandMonarque - Iswelcomedbytheyoungcourtiers - ItfiguresatthesuppersofAnetand Chantilly,andattheorgiesoftheTempleandthePalaisRoyal - TherapturousstrophesofChaulieuand Rousseau - FrederickWilliamI.andtheBerlinAcademicians - AugustustheStrongandthepagewhopilfered hisChampagne - Horroroftheold-fashionedgourmetsattheinnovation - BertinduRocheretandtheMarshal d'Artaguan - Systemofwine-makinginthoChampagneearlyintheeighteenthcentury - Bottlingofthewine inflasks - IcingChampagnewiththecorksloosened...........34 IV.

TheBattleoftheWines.

TemporarychecktothepopularityofsparklingChampagne - Doctorsdisagree - ThechampionsofChampagneand Burgundy - Penaandhispatient - AyoungBurgundianstudentattacksthewineofReims - TheFacultyof Reimsinarms - AlocalOldParrcitedasanexampleinfavourofthewinesoftheChampagne - Salinsof BeauneandLePescheurofReimsengagewarmlyinthedispute - Apeltingwithpamphlets - Burgundysounds awar-note - TheSapphicsofBenigneGrenan - Anaspbeneaththeflowers - Thegauntletpickedup - Carols fromacoffin - Champagneextolledassuperiortoallotherwines - Itinspirestheheartandstirsthebrain - The

apotheosisofChampagnefoam - Burgundy,aninvalid,seeksaprescription - Impartiallyappreciativedrinkersof

bothwines - BoldBurgundianandstoutRemois,eachajollytipplingfellow - CanonMaucroix'sparallelbetween BurgundyandDemosthenesandChampagneandCicero - Champagneapanaceaforgoutandstone - Final decisioninfavourofChampagnebythemedicalfacultyofParis - Pluche'sopiniononthecontroversy - Cham- pagnealivelywitandBurgundyasolidunderstanding - Champagnecommandsdoublethepriceofthebest Burgundy - Zealotsreconciledattable..............47 V. SparklingChampagneintoxicatestheRegentd'OrleansandtherouesofthePalaisRoyal - ItisdrunkbyPeterthe GreatatReims - AhorsetrainedonChampagneandbiscuits - DecreeofLouisXV.regardingthetransport ofChampagne - WineforthepetitscabinetsduHoi - ThepetitssoupersandChampagneorgiesoftheroyal household - Abibulousroyalmistress - TheWell-BelovedatReims - FredericktheGreat,GeorgeII.,Stanislas Leczinski,andMarshalSaxealldrinkChampagne - VoltairesingsthepraisesoftheeffervescingwineofAy TheCommanderDescartesandLebatteuxextolthecharmsofsparklingChampagne - BertinduRocheretand hisbalsamicmolecules - TheBacchanalianpoetPanardchantstheinspiringeffectsofthevintagesofthe Marne - MarmontelisjointlyinspiredbyMademoiselledeNavarreandthewineofAvenay - TheAbbfde

1'Attaignantandhisfairhostesses - Breakagesofbottlesinthemanufacturers'cellars - Attemptstoobviate

them - Theearlysparklingwinesmerelycremant - Sautebouchonanddemi-mousseux - PricesofChampagne intheeighteenthcentury - PreferencegiventolightacidwinesforsparklingChampagne - Lingeringrelicsof prejudiceagainstvinmousseux - Thesecretadditionofsugar - Originallythewinenotclearedinbottle - Its transfertootherbottlesnecessary - Adoptionofthepresentmethodofriddingthewineofitsdeposit - The vine-cultivatorsthelasttoprofitbythepopularityofsparklingChampagne - MarieAntoinettewelcomedto Reims - ReceptionandcoronationofLouisXVI.atReims - 'Thecrown,ithurtsme!' - Oppressiveduesand tithesoftheancienregime - TheFermiersGenerauxandtheirhotelatReims - ChampagneundertheRevolu- tion - NapoleonatEpernay - Champagneincludedintheequipmentofhissatraps - TheAlliesintheCham- pagne - Drunkennessandpillaging - AppreciationofChampagnebytheinvadingtroops - Thebeneficialresults whichfollowed - UniversalpopularityofChampagne - Thewineafavouritewithkingsandpotentates - Itstraces tobemetwitheverywhere................57 VI.

ChampagneinEngland.

ThestrongandfoamingwineoftheChampagneforbiddenbistroopsbyHenryV. - TheEnglishcarryingoffwine whenevacuatingReimsontheapproachofJeanneDare - AlegendofthesiegeofEpernay - HenryVIII. andhisvineyardatAy - LouisXIV.'spresentofChampagnetoCharlesII. - ThecourtiersoftheMerryMonarch retainthetasteforFrenchwineacquiredinexile - St.EvremondmakestheChampagneflutetheglassof

CONTENTS.VI

1 PAGH fashion - StillChampagnequaffedbythebeauxoftheMallandtherakesoftheMulberryGardens - Itinspires thepoetsanddramatistsoftheRestoration - IsdrankbyJamesII.andWilliamIII. - Theadventofsparkling ChampagneinEngland - Farquhar'sLoveandaBottle - MockmodetheCountrySquireandthewittyliquor Champagnethesourceofwit - Port-wineandwarcombineagainstit,butithelpsMarlborough'sdownfall Coffin'spoeticalinvitationtotheEnglishonthereturnofpeace - Afraternityofchemicaloperatorswhodraw Champagnefromanapple - TheinfluenceofChampagneintheAugustanageofEnglishliterature - Extolled byGayandPrior - Shenstone'Bversesataninn - RendersVanbrugh'scomedieslighterthanhisedifices SwiftpreachestemperanceinChampagnetoBoliDgbroke - Champagnethemostfashionablewineofthe eighteenthcentury - BertinduRocheretsendsitincaskandbottletotheKing'swine-merchant - Champagne atVauxhallinHoraceWalpole'sday - OldQ.getsChampagnefromM.dePuissieux - LadyMary'sChampagne andchicken - Champagneplaysitspartatmasqueradesandbacchanaliansuppers - Becomesthebeverageof

theultrafashionablesaboveandbelowstairs - FiguresinthecomediesofFoote,Garrick,Coleman,andHolcroft - Champagneandrealpain - SirEdwardBarry'slearnedremarksonChampagne - PittandDundasdrunkon

Jenkinson'sChampagne - FoxandtheChampagnefromBrooks's - ChampagnesmuggledfromJersey - Grown inEngland - ExperiencesofatravellerintheChampagnetradeinEnglandatthecloseofthecentury - Sillery thefavouritewine - Nelsonandthe'fairEmma'undertheinfluenceofChampagne - ThePrinceRegent's partialityforChampagnepunch - Brumniell'sChampagneblacking - TheDukeofClarenceovercomebyCham- pagoe - CurranandCanningonthewine - Henderson'spraiseofSillery - TomMoore'ssummerfeteinspired byPinkChampagne - Scott'sMusedipsherwinginChampagne - Byron'ssparklingmetaphors - Ajoint-stock poeminpraiseofPinkChampagne - ThewheelsofsociallifeinEnglandoiledbyChampagne - Itflowsatpublic banquetsandinaugurations - Playsitspartinthe]City,ontheTurf,andinthetheatricalworld - Impartsa charmtothedinnersofBelgraviaandthesuppersofBohemia - Champagnetheladies'wineparexcellence -

Itsinfluenceasamatrimonialagent -

'thewildfirewineofFrance!'........88

PartII.

I.

TheChampagneVinelands - TheVineyardsoftheRiver.

ThevinelandsintheneighbourhoodofEpernay - ViticulturalareaoftheChampagne - Avisittothevineyardsof 'goldenplants' - TheDizyvineyards - AntiquityoftheAyvineyards - St.Tresainandthewine-growersofAy TheAyvintageof1871 - TheMareuilvineyardsandtheirproduce - Avernay;itsvineyards,wines,andancient abbey - ThevineyardsofMutignyandCumieres - Dameryand'labellehotesse'ofHenriQuatre - Adrienne LecouvreurandtheMarechaldeSaxe'smatrimonialschemes - PilgrimagetoHautvillers - RemainsoftheRoyal AbbeyofSt.Peter - Theancientchurch - Itsquaintdecorationsandmonuments - Theviewfromtheheightsof Hautvillers - Theabbeyvineyardsandwine-cellarsinthedaysofDomPtrignon - ThevinelandsoftheCote d'Epernay - Pierryanditsvinfyardcellars - TheMousBy,Vinay,andAbloisSt.Martinvineyards - TheCote d'Avize - Chavot,Monthelon,Grauves,andCms - ThevineyardsofCramantandAvize,andtheirlightdelicate whitewines - TheOgerandLeMesnilvineyards - Vertusanditspicturesqueancientremains - Itsvineyards plantedwithBurgundygrapesfromBeaune - TheredwineofVertusafavouritebeverageofWilliamIII.of

England117

II. TheChampagneVinelands - TheVineyardsoftheMountain., ThewineofSillery - Originofitsrenown - TheMarechaled'EstreesasuccessfulMarehandedeVin - TheMarquisde Sillerythegreatestwine-farmerintheChampagne - CosBackappreciationoftheSilleryproduce - Theroute fromReimstoSillery - HenriQuatreandtheTaissywines - FailureoftheJacquessonsystemofvinecultiva- tion - ChateauofSillery - Wine-makingatM.Fortel's - Sillerysec - ThevintageatVerzenayandthevendan- geoirs - RenownoftheVerzenaywine - TheVerzyvineyards - EdwardIII.attheAbbeyofSt.Basle ExcursionfromReimstoBouzy - TheherringprocessionatSt.Remi - Rilly,Chigny,andLudes - TheKDights Templars''pot'ofwine - MaillyandtheviewovertheChampagneplains - Wine-makingatMailly - Thevillage inthewood - ChateauandparkofLouvois,LouisleGrand'sWarMinister - ThevineyardsofBouzy - Its church-steeple,andthelotteryofthegreatgoldingot - PressinggrapesattheWerlevendangeoir - Stillred Bouzy - Ambonnay - Apatternpeasantvine-proprietor - TheAmbonnayvintage - ThevineyardsofVille-Dom- mangeandSacy,HermonvilleandSt.Thierry - Thestillredwineofthelatter......130

VlliCONTENTS.

III. PAGE AcombinationofcircumstancesessentialtotheproductionofgoodChampagne - Varietiesofvinescultivatedinthe Champagnevineyards - Differentclassesofvine-proprietors - Costofcultivation - Thesoilofthevineyards Periodandsystemofplantingthevines - Theoperationof'provenage' - The'taille'orpruning,the'beehage' ordigging - Fixingthevine-stakes - Greatcostofthelatter - Manuringandshorteningbaokthevines - The summerhoeingaroundtheplants - Removalofthestakesafterthevintage - Precautionsadoptedagainstspring frosts - TheGuyotsystemofroofingthevineswithmatting - Formsashelterfromrain,hail,andfrost,and aidstheripeningofthegrapes - VariouspeststhatpreyupontheChampagnevines - Destructioncausedbythe Eumolpe,theChabot,theBfiche,theCochylus,andthePyrale - Attemptsmadetochecktheravagesofthe latterwiththeelectriclight140 IV.

TheVintageintheChampagne.

PeriodoftheChampagnevintage - Vintagerssummonedbybeatofdrum - Earlymorningthebesttimeforplucking thegrapes - Excitementintheneighbouringvillagesatvintage-time - Vintagersatwork - Mulesemployedto conveythegatheredgrapesdownthesteeperslopes - Thefruitcarefullyexaminedbeforebeingtakentothe wine-press - Arrivalofthegrapesatthevendangeoir - Theyaresubjectedtothreesqueezes,andthentothe 'rebSche' - Themustispumpedintocasksandlefttoferment - Onlyafewofthevine-proprietorsinthe Champagnepresstheirowngrapes - Thepricesthegrapescommand - Airofjollitythroughoutthedistrict duringthevintage :Everyoneisinterestedinit,andprofitsbyit - Vintagers'feteonSt.Vincent's-day - End- V.

ThePreparationofChampagne.

ThetreatmentofChampagneafteritcomesfromthewine-press - Theraokingandblendingofthewine - Thepropor- tionsofredandwhitevintagescomposingthe'cuvee' - Deficiencyandexcessofeffervescence - Strengthand formofChampagnebottles - The'tirage'orbottlingofthewine - Theprocessofgas-makingcommences DetailsoftheoriginanddevelopmentoftheeffervescentpropertiesofChampagne - Theinevitablebreakageof bottleswhichensues - Thisremediedbytransferringthewinetoalowertemperature - Thewinestackedin piles - Formationofsediment - Bottlesplaced'surpointe'anddailyshakentodetachthedeposit - Effectof thisoccupationonthoseincessantlyengagedinit - ThepresentsystemoriginatedbyaworkmanofMadame Clicquot's - 'Claws'and'masks' - Champagnecellars - Theirconstructionandaspect - Rawrecruitsforthe 'RegimentdeChampagne' - Transformingthe'vinbrut'intoChampagne - Disgorgingandliqueuringthewine Thecompositionoftheliqueur - Variationinthequantityaddedtosuitdiversenationaltastes - Thecorking, stringing,wiring,andamalgamating - Thewine'sagitatedexistencecomestoanend - Thebottleshavetheir toilettesmade - Champagnesetsoutonitsbeneficialpilgrimageroundtheworld......154 VI.

EeimsanditsChampagneEstablishments.

ThecityofReims - Itshistoricalassociations - TheCathedral - Itswesternfrontoneofthemostsplendidconceptions

ofthethirteenthcentury - Thesovereignscrownedwithinitswalls - Presentaspectoftheancientarchiepiscopal

city - ThewoollenmanufacturesandotherindustriesofReims - Thecityunderminedwiththecellarsofthe greatChampagnefirms - Reimshotels - GothichouseintheRueduBourgSt.Denis - Renaissancehouseinthe RuedeVesle - ChurchofSt.Jacques:itsgatewayandquaintweathercock - TheRuedesTapissiersandthe ChapterCourt - Thelongtapersusedatreligiousprocessions - ThePlacedesMarchesanditsancienthouses TheHoteldeVille - StatueofLouisXIII. - TheRuesdelaPrisonandduTemple - Messrs.Werle&Co.,suc- cessorstotheVeuveClicquotPonsardin - TheirofficesandcellarsonthesiteofaformerCommanderieofthe Templars - OriginofthecelebrityofMadameClicquot'swines - M.Werleandhisson - RemainsoftheCom- manderie - Theforty-fivecellarsoftheClicquot-Werleestablishment - Ourtourofinspectionthroughthem Ingeniousdosingmachine - Anexplosionanditsconsequences - M.WerlS'sgalleryofpaintings - Madame Clicquot'sRenaissancehouseanditspicturesquebas-reliefs - TheWerlevineyardsandvendangeoirs...168

CONTENTS.1

V VII. PAGE ThehouseofLouisRoedererfoundedbyaploddingGermannamedSchreider - Thecentralandotherestablishmentsof thefirm - AncienthouseintheRuedesElus - Thegloomy-lookingRuedesDeuxAngesandprison-likeaspectof itshouses - Insidetheircourtsthescenechanges - HandsomeRenaissancehouseandgarden,aformerabode ofthecanonsoftheCathedral - ThePlaceRoyale - TheHoteldesFermesandthestatueofthe'wise,virtuous, andmagnanimousLouisXV.' - BirthplaceofColbertintheRuedeCeres - QuaintAdamandEvegatewayinthe Ruedel'Arbalete - Heidsieckoffaience - TheRuedesADglaisaformerrefugeofEnglishCatholics - RemainsoftheoldUniversityofReims - Ancienttowerandgrotto - ThehandsomecastellatedPommeryestablishment - Thespaciouscellierandhuge

carvedcuveetons - Thedescenttothecellars - Theirgreatextent - Theseloftysubterraneanchambersorigin- .allyquarries,andsubsequentlyplacesofrefugeoftheearlyChristiansandtheProtestants - MadamePommery's

splendidcuveesof1868and1874 - Messrs.deSt.Marceaux&Co.'snewestablishmentintheAvenuedeSillery - Itsgarden-courtandcircularshaft - Animatedsceneinthelargepackinghall - Loweringbottledwinetothe

cellars - GreatdepthandextentoftheFecellars - Messrs.deSt.Marceaux&Co.'svariouswines - Theestab- lishmentofVeuveMorelle&Co.,successorstoMaxSutaine - Thelatter's'EssaisurleVindeChampagne' TheSutainefamilyformerlyofsomenoteatReims - Morelle&Co.'scellarswelladaptedtothedevelopment ofsparklingwines - Thevariousbrandsofthehouse - ThePorteDieu-Lumiere......188 IX.

Epernay.

TheconnectionofEpernaywiththeproductionofwineofremotedate - Thetownrepeatedlyburntandplundered HughtheGreatcarriesoffallthewineoftheneighbourhood - VineyardsbelongingtotheAbbeyofSt.Martin intheeleventh,twelfth,andthirteenthcenturies - AbbotGillesordersthedemolitionofawine-presswhich infringestheabbey'sfeudalrights - Bequestsofvineyardsinthefifteenthcentury - FrancisI.bestowsEpernay onClaudeDukeofGuiBein1544 - TheEschevinssendapresentofwinetotheirnewseigneur - Winelevied fortheking'scampatRethelandthestrongholdsoftheprovincebytheDuedeLongueville - Epernaysacked andfiredontheapproachofCharlesV. - TheCharles-FontainevendangeoiratAvenay - Destructionofthe immensepressoirsoftheAbbeyofSt.Martin - ThehandsomeRenaissanceentrancetothechurchofEpernay Plantationofthe'terredesiege'withvinesin1550 - MoneyandwineleviedonEpernaybyCondeandthe DukeofGuise - HenriQuatrelayssiegetoEpernay - DeathofMarechalBiron - Desperatebattleamongstthe vineyards - Tripletalentofthe'bonRoyHenri'fordrinking,fighting,andlove-making - Versesaddressed byhimtohis'bellehotesse'AnneduPuy - TheEpernayTownCouncilmakegiftsofwinetovariousfunc- tionariestosecuretheirgood-will - PresentsofwinetoTurenneatthecoronationofLouisXIV. - Petitionto LouvoistowithdrawtheEpernaygarrisonthatthevintagemaybegatheredin - TheDukeandDuchessof OrleansatEpernay - LouisXIV.partakesofthelocalvintageatthemaisonabbatialeonhiswaytothearmyof theRhine - IncreasedreputationofthewineofEperaayattheendoftheseventeenthcentury - Numerous offeringsofittotheMarquisdePuisieux,Governorofthetown - TheOldPrt-tenderpresentedatEpernaywith twenty-fourbottlesofthebe>t - SparklingwinesenttotheMarquisdePuisieuxatSillery,andalsotohis nephew - FurthergiftstothePrincedeTurenne - Thevintagedestroyedbyfrostin1740 - TheEpernayslopes atthisepochsaidtoproducethemostdeliciouswineinEurope - Vinesplantedwherehouseshadformerly stood - Thedevelopmentofthetradeinsparklingwine - A'tirage'offiftythousandbottlesin1787 - Arthur- YoungdrinksChampngneatEpernayatfortysousthebottle - ItissurmisedthatLouisXVI.,onhisreturn fromVarennes,isintpiredbyChampagneatEpernay - NapoleonandbisfamilvenjoythehospitalityofJean b

XCONTENTS.

PACK EemiMoet - KingJeromeofWestphalia'strueprophecywithregardtotheRussiansandChampagne - Dis- gracefulconductofthePrussiansandRussiansatEpernayin1814 - TheMayoroffeisthemthefreerunofhis cellars - CharlesX.,LouisPhilippe,andNapoleonIII.acceptthe'vind'honneur'atEpernay - Thetownoccu- X. EarlyrecordsoftheMoetfamilyatReimsandEpernay - JeanRemiMoet,thefounderofthecommerceinChampagne wines - Extractsfromoldaccount-booksoftheMoets - JeanRemiMoetreceivestheEmperorNapoleon,the EmpressJosephine,andtheKingofWestphalia - ThefirmofMoet&Chandonconstituted - Theirestablishment intheRueduCommerce - Thedeliveryandwashingofnewbottles - Thenumerousvineyardsandvendangeoirs ofthefirm - Theircuveemadeinvatsof12,000gallons - Thebottlingofthewine - Asubterraneancity,with milesofstreets,cross-roads,openspaces,tramways,andstations - Theanciententrancetothesevaults TabletcommemorativeofthevisitofNapoleonI. - TheoriginalvaultsknownasSiberia - Sceneinthepacking- hall - Messrs.Moet&Chandon'slargeandcompletestaff - Thefamous'Star'brandofthefirm - Perrier-Jouet's chateau,offices,andcellars - Classificationofthewineofthehouse - TheestablishmentofMessrs.PolRoger& Co. - Theirlargestockofthefine1874vintage - Thepreparationsforthetirage - Theirvastfireproofcellier anditstemperature - Theirloftyandcapaciouscellars - Pierrybecomesawine-growingdistrictconsequentupon DomPerignon'sdiscovery - EsteeminwhichthegrowthsoftheClosSt.Pierrewereheld - Cazotte,authorof HiscontestwiththeAbbotofHantvillerswithreferencetotheabbeytithesofwine - TheChateauofPierry Itsownerdemandstohaveitsearchedtoprovethatheisnotaforestallerofcorn - ThevineyardsandCham- pagneestablishmentofGe-Dufaut&Co. - Thereservesofoldwinesinthecellarsofthisfirm - Honourssecured bythematViennaandParis...............205 XL

ThehourgadeofAyanditseighteenth-centurychateau - Gamblingpropensitiesofaformerowner,BalthazarConstance

Dange-Dorcay - AppreciationoftheAyvintagebySigismundofBohemia,LeoX.,CharlesV.,FrancisI.,and HenryVIII. - BertinduRocheretcelebratesthispartialityintriolets - EstimationoftheAywineinthereigns ofCharlesIX.andHenriIII. - IsafavoureddrinkwiththeleadersoftheLeague,andwithHenriIV., CatherinedeMedicis,andthecourtiei'softhatepoch - The'Vendangeoird'HenriQuatre'atAy - TheKing's prideinhistitleofSeigneurd'AyandGonesse - DominicusBaudiuspunninglysuggeststhatthe'Vind'Ay' shouldbecalled'VinumDei' - Themeritsofthewinesungbypoetsandextolledbywits - TheAywinein itspalmydaysevidentlynotsparkling - ArthurYoung'svisittoAyin1787 - TheestablishmentofDeutz& Geldermann - Drawingoffthecuvfiethere - ModeofexcavatingcellarsintheChampagne - Thefirm'snew cellars,vineyards,andvendangeoir - M.Duminy'scellarsandwines - Thehousefoundedin1814 - Thenew modelDummyestablishment - PicturesqueoldhouseatAy - Messrs.PfungstFreres&Co.'scellars - Their finely-matureddryChampagnes - Theoldchurch"ofAyanditsnumerousdecorationsofgrapesandvine-leaves - ThesculpturedfigureabovetheRenaissancedoorway - TheMontebelloestablishmentatMareuil - Thechateau formerlythepropertyoftheDukesofOrleans - AtitledChampagnefirm - ThebrilliantcareerofMarshal Lannes - ApromenadethroughtheMontebelloestablishment - Thepress-house,thecuvee-vat,thepacking- room,theoffices,andthecellars - Portraitsandrelicsatthechateau - TheestablishmentofBruch-Foucher& Co. - Thehandsomecarvedgiganticeuvee-tun - Thecellarsandtheirloftyshafts - Thewinesofthefirm..217 XII.

ChampagneEstablishmentsatAvizeandEilly.

Avizethecentreofthewhitegrapedistrict - Itssituationandaspect - TheestablishmentofGiesler&Co. - Thetirage

andthecuvee - VinBrutinracksandontables - Thepacking-hall,theextensivecellars,andthedisgorging cellier - Bottlestoresandbottle-washingmachines - Messrs.Giesler'swine-pressesatAvizeandvendangeoir atBouzy - Theirvineyardsandtheirpurchasesofgrapes - ReputationoftheGieslerbrand - Theestablish- mentofM.CharlesdeCazanove - Atameyoungboar - Boar-huntingintheChampagne - M.deCazanove's commodiouscellarsandcarefully-selectedwines - Vineyardsownedbyhimandhisfamily - Reputationofhis winesinParisandtheirgrowingpopularityinEngland - InterestingviewoftheAvizeandCramantvineyards fromM.deCazanove'sterracedgarden - ThevintagingofthewhitegrapesintheChampagne - RoperFreres' establishmentatRilly-la-Montagne - Theircellarspenetratedbyrootsoftrees - Somesamplesoffineold Champagnes - TheprincipalChalonsestablishments - PoemonChampagnebyM.AmaurydeCazanove..229

CONTENTS.XI

XIII.

SportintheChampagne.

TheChampagneforeststheresortofthewild-boar - Departureofahunting-partyintheearlymorningtoaboar- hunt - Rousingtheboarfromhislair - Commencementoftheattack - Chasingtheboar - Hiscourseischecked -byabullet - Thedogsrushoninfullpursuit - Theboarturnsandstandsatbay - Askilfulmarksmanadvances andgiveshimthecoupdegrace - Huntingthewild-boaronhorsebackintheChampagne - Anexcitingday's sportwithM.d'Honnincton'sboar-hounds - The'sonneriedusanglier'andthe'vue' - Thehornssoundinchorus 'Theboarhastakensoil' - Theboarleavesthestream,andaspiritedchaseensues - Broughttobay,heseeks thewateragain - Deathlystrugglebetweentheboarandafullpackofhounds - Thefatalshotisatlength fired,andthe'hallali'issounded - Asmanyasfifteenwild-boarssometimeskilledatasinglemeet - The vagariesofsometameyoungboars - Houndsofallkindsusedforhuntingthewild-boarintheChampagne Damagedonebyboarstothevineyardsandthecrops - VarietiesofgamecommontotheChampagne..235

PartIII.

I.

SparklingSatjmurandSparklingSauternes.

ThesparklingwinesoftheLoireoftenpalmedoffasChampagne - Thefinerqualitiesimprovewithage - Anjouthe cradleofthePlantagenetkings - SaumuranditsdominatingfeudalChateauandantiqueHoteldeVille - Its sinisterRuedesPayensandsteeptortuousGrandeRue - ThevineyardsoftheCoteauofSaumur - Abandoned

stone-quarriesconvertedintodwellings - Thevintageinprogress - Old-fashionedpressoirs - Themakingofthe

wine - TourainethefavouriteresidenceoftheearlierFrenchmonarchs - Afteranight'scarouseattheepoch oftheRenaissance - TheVouvrayvinejards - Balzac'spictureofLaVallgeCoquette - ThevillageofVouvray andtheChateauofMoncontour - Vernou,withitsreminiscencesofSullyandPepin-le-Bref - Thevineyards aroundSaumur - RemarkableancientDolmens - Ackerman-Laurance'sestablishmentatSaint-Florent - Their extensivecellars,ancientandmodern - Treatmentofthenewly-vintagedwine - Thecuvge - Proportionsofwine fromblackandwhitegrapes - Thebottlinganddisgorgingofthewineandfinishingoperations - TheChateau ofVarrainsandtheestablishmentofM.LouisDuvauaine - Hiscellarsasuccessionofgloomygalleries - The disgorgingofthewineaccomplishedinainelodramatic-lookingcave - M.Duvau'svineyard - Hissparkling Saumurofvariousages - Markedsuperiorityofthemorematuredsamples - M.E.Normandin'ssparkling SauturnesmanufactoryatChateauneuf - Angoulemeanditsancientfortifications - YindeColombar - M.Nor- mandin'ssparklingSauternescuvee - HiscellarsnearChateauneuf - Recognitionaccordedtothewineatthe II. SparklingwinesoftheCoted'OrattheParisExhibitionof1878 - Chambertin,Romanee,andVougeot - Burgundy winesandvinesformerlypresentsfromprinces - YintagingsparklingBurgundies - Theirafter-treatmentinthe cellars - Excessofbreakage- - SimilarityofproceedingtothatfollowedintheChampagne - Principalmanufac- turersofsparklingBurgundies - SparklingwinesofTonnerre,thebirthplaceoftheChevalierd'Eon - TheVin d'Ai'banneofBar-sur-Aube - DeaththereoftheBastarddeBourbon - MadamedelaMotte'sostentatiousdisplay andarrestthere - SparklingwinesoftheBeaujolais - TheMont-Brouillyvineyards - Ancientreputationofthe winesoftheJura - TheVinJauneofArboisbelovedofHenriQuatre - Rhymesbyhiminitshonour - Lons-le- Saulnier - VineyardsyieldingthesparklingJurawines - Theirvintagingandsubsequenttreatment - Theirhigh alcoholicstrengthandgeneraldrawbacks - SparklingwinesofAuvergne,Guienne,Dauphine,andLanguedoc

SparklingSaint-PeraytheChampagneoftheSouth - Valence,withitsreminiscencesofPiusVI.andNapoleonI. - The'HornsofCrussol'onthebanksoftheRhone - VintagesceneatSaint-Peray - Thevinesandvineyards

producingsparklingwine - ManipulationofsparklingSaint-Peray - Itsabundanceofnaturalsusar - Thecellars

ofM.deSaint-Prix,andsamplesofhiswines - SparklingCote-Rotie,Chateau-Grille,andHermitage - Annual

productionandprincipalmarketsofsparklingSaint-Peray - ClairettedeDie - ThePorteRougeofDieCathedral - HowtheDiewineismade - Thesparklingwhiteandrose-colouredmuscatelsofDie - Sparklingwinesof

VerchenyandLagrasse - BarnaveandtheroyalflighttoVarennes - NarbonneformerlyaminiatureRome,now notedmerelyforitswineandhoney - FeteoftheBlackVirginatLimoux - Preferencegiventothenewwine overthemiraculouswater - BlanquetteofLimoux,andhowitismade - Characteristicsofthisoverratedwine.251

XllCONTENTS.

III.

FactsandNotesrespectingSparklingWines.

PAGEDryandsweetChampagnes - Theirsparklingproperties - FormofChampagneglasses - Styleofsparklingwinescon-

sumedindifferentcountries - ThecolourandalcoholicstrengthofChampagne - Champagneapprovedofbythe faculty - ItsUBeinnervousderangements - TheicingofChampagne - ScarcityofgrandvintagesintheCham- pagne - Thequalityofthewinehaslittleinfluenceontheprice - PricesrealisedbytheAyandVerzenaycrus ingrandyears - SuggestionsforlayingdownChampagnesofgrandvintages - Theimprovementtheydevelop afterafewyears - Thewineof1874 - TheproperkindofcellarinwhichtolaydownChampagne - Advantages ofBurrow'spatentsliderwine-bins - IncreaseintheconsumptionofChampagne - TabularstatementofBtocks, exports,andhomeconsumptionfrom1844-5to1877-8 - WhentoserveChampagneatadinner-party - Charles DickenB'sdictumthatitsproperplaceisataball - AdvantageouseffectofChampagDeatanordinaryBritish dinner-party..................258 iA

WITHNOTESON

OTHERSPARKLINGWINES.

PARTI.

I.EarlyRenownoptheChampagneWines.

TheVineinGaul - Domitian'sedicttouprootit - PlantationofVineyardsunderProbus - EarlyVineyardsoftheChampagne - RavageshytheNortherntribesrepulsedforatimebytheConsulJovinus - St.RerniandthebaptismofClovis

St.Remi'sVineyards - SimultaneousprogressofChristianityandthecultivationoftheVine - TheVineafavourite

subjectofornamentintheChurchesoftheChampagne - ThecultureoftheVineinterrupted,onlytoberenewed

withincreasedardour - Earlydistinctionbetween'VinsdelaRiviere'and'VinsdelaMontagne' - APrelate'scounsel

respectingtheproperWinetodrink - TheChampagnedesolatedbyWar - PopeUrbanII.aformercanonofReims

Cathedral - HispartialityfortheWineofAy - BequestsofVineyardstoreligiousestablishments - Criticalecclesi-

asticaltopers - TheWineoftheChampagnecausespoetstosingandrejoice - 'LaBatailledesVins' - Winesof

AuvillerandEspernaileBaeheler.

rfp&j&fi"

Diodorus.2Idem.

AHISTORYOFCHAMPAGNE.

thoughthecultureofthevinequotesdbs_dbs25.pdfusesText_31

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