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HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 1

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU -

A HEALTHY NONDAIRY / VEGAN CHEESE (1610-2011):

EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED

BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK

Including Various Names and Types: Sufu, Red Fermented Tofu, Bean Cheese, Chinese Cheese, Doufu-ru, Soybean Cheese, Soy Cheese, Bean-Curd Cheese, Fermented Soybean Curd, Bean Cake, Tofyuyo / Tofu-yo, Red Sufu, Fu-Yu, Fu-Ru,

Chou Doufu / Ch'ou Toufu, Pickled Bean Curd, etc.

Compiled

by

William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi

2011

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 2

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

Copyright (c) 2011 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi

All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic,

or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews,

without written permission from the publisher.

Published by: Soyinfo Center

P.O. Box 234

Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA

Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091

www.soyinfocenter.com info@soyinfocenter.com

ISBN 978-1-928914-40-2 (Fermented Tofu)

Printed 13 Nov. 2011

Price: Available on the Web free of charge

Search engine keywords:

History of sufu

History of bean cheese

History of Chinese cheese

History of soybean cheese

History of soy cheese

History of bean-curd cheese

History of fermented soybean curd

History of tofu-yo

History of tofuyo

History of bean cake

History of Fu-Yu

History of nondairy cheeses

History of healthy nondairy cheeses

History of vegan cheeses

Bibliography of sufu

Bibliography of bean cheese

Bibliography of Chinese cheese

Bibliography of soybean cheese

Bibliography of soy cheese

Bibliography of bean-curd cheese

Bibliography of fermented soybean curd

Bibliography of tofu-yo

Bibliography of tofuyo

Bibliography of bean cake

Bibliography of Fu-Yu

Bibliography of nondairy cheeses

Bibliography of vegan cheeses

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 3

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

Contents

Page

Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4

Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5

About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 8

Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 9

How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 10

Small Graphics ........................................................................................................................................................ 12-16

History of Fermented Tofu: 763 References in Chronological Order ...................................................................... 17

Contains 56 Photographs and Illustrations

Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 315

Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 360

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 4

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting people from around the world who share a common interest, and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out: University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois

Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey.

Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller,

Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman.

Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special help on Slavic-language documents. National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann,

Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson,

Tanner Wray.

Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache.

Lane Medical Library at Stanford University.

Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry

Cartmill, Linda Barbero.

Harvard University's Five Botanical Libraries (especially

Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas.

French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early

1980s.

DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in collecting the documents, building the library, and producing the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li,

Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman,

Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu. Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park,

Maryland.

" For outstanding help on this fermented tofu book we thank: Masaaki Yasuda, H.T. Huang, Quong Hop & Co., Yasuko Torii, Cecilia Chiang, Jim Miller, Stanley Lee, Ben

Lee, Eng Wun-hong.

"Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. " This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject. This book is dedicated to the kings of the Loochoo / Ryukyu dynasty, Dr. Masaaki Yasuda, Nganshou Wai, and

Quong Hop & Co. - pioneers in this fi eld.

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 5

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

INTRODUCTION

What is fermented tofu? It is a soft (almost creamy), somewhat salty non-dairy (vegan) cheese that originated either in China or the islands around Okinawa in about the

1500s. It has a rather strong aroma, reminiscent of European

mold-ripened cheeses such as Roquefort, Camembert, Blue / Bleu, Brie, Neufchatel, Stilton, Gorgonzola, etc. Many Westerners consider it an acquired taste, but those who try it often grow to love it - or even crave it. It does not melt but it is cut or spreads easily, and is generally used as a condiment, as with rice or rice porridge, or as a spread for crackers. There are many different types made in many different ways - just as there are with dairy cheeses, but all can be divided into two basic types: (1) Tofu molded before pickling. (2) Tofu not molded before pickling. It is typically made using a two-part fermentation. For type No. 1: First,

1-inch cubes of fi rm tofu are inoculated with spores of a

special species of mold. These are kept in a warm place (or incubated) for several days until each cube is overgrown with a fragrant white mycelium. Second, these mold- covered cubes are immersed in a brining liquor (often in individual jars) consisting of a mixture of rice wine, water, and salt. There the tofu ages and ripens. It will keep for years unrefrigerated - or even longer refrigerated.

Brief Chronology of Fermented Tofu.

1596 - Fermented tofu (furu) may be mentioned in the

Becao Gangmu [The Great Pharmacopea] by Li Shizhen.

Scholars disagree.

1610 - Earliest known reference to fermented tofu in China

appears in Penglong Yehua [Peng Long Ye Hua; Night Discourses by the Penglong Mountain], by Li Rihua. The fermented tofu is named hai fu [hai tofu fu] (Huang 2000, p. 325-26). The next few earliest Chinese documents that mention fermented tofu are from 1680, about 1750, and 1790.

1783 - Fermented tofu is fi rst mentioned in Japan in the

TÙfu Hyakuchin Zokuhen [One Hundred Rare and Favorite Tofu Recipes: Sequel], by Ka Hitsujun of Osaka. Two types of fermented tofu were mentioned, both red. However this fermented tofu subsequently disappeared and can no longer be found in mainland Japan.

1818 - Basil Hall, an Englishman, describing a feast by

the king of Loochoo (in today's Okinawa province) says:

"There was something like cheese given us after the cakes, but we cannot form a probable conjecture of what it was

made." It was probably tofuyo.

1855 Jan. - Fermented tofu is next mentioned in the

Western world by Baron de Montgaudry, the French

Consul at Shanghai and Ning-po, China. Writing in French in the Bulletin de la Societe díAcclimatation he says (after describing regular tofu): For the rich, a seasoning (assaisonnement) is prepared which requires more care and culinary talent. The soybean paté (La p'te de Pois) [tofu] is fermented after having been seasoned with pepper, salt, powdered bay/laurel leaves, powdered thyme, and other aromatics. During the fermentation, the producer bastes the paté with soybean oil (líhuile de Pois). After several days of fermentation, the preparation is ready. This paté or cheese (fermented tofu) becomes a very powerful digestive (aid to digestion) and an aperitif, which no one can resist because it is extremely tasty.

1858 April - Fermented tofu fi rst arrives in the Western

world in Australia (Melbourne). Called "Pickle beans curd" [sic], it is part of a shipment of Chinese foods sent to Chinese in Australia because of the Gold Rush (1851-1861). Unlike regular fresh tofu, fermented tofu is not perishable and can be shipped long distances (Towns 1858).

1878 - Doufu-ru (Fermented tofu) is fi rst made in the

Western world in San Francisco by Wo Sing & Co., which also makes regular tofu (Wells Fargo & Co.).

1879 June 4 - Fermented tofu is fi rst mentioned in a U.S.

newspaper, in the Hartford Daily Courant (Connecticut) in an article titled "A Hartford lady at a Chinese dinner." The wife of an American offi cial in China, she calls it "salt bean curd."

1882 - Doufu-ru (fermented tofu) in now being made by a

second tofu company in San Francisco, Sam Sing.

1882 - In France, fermented tofu is fi rst given a real name -

"fromage de soja" (Figuier 1882).

1883 - Fermented tofu ("10 boxes of bean cake") is again

imported to Australia from Hongkong, again as part of a shipment of Chinese foods (Brisbane Courier, Queensland, Australia). Another shipment with the same name arrives in

June 1885.

1887 - In A Primer in the Mandarin Dialect, published by

the China Inland Mission in Shanghai, fermented tofu is described on page 197 as "teo-fu-ru, bean curd;" The three

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 6

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

Chinese characters are given.

1888 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English as

"Beancurd, preserved" (Alabaster 1888).

1892 - Stinky tofu (a malodorous type of fermented tofu,

loved or craved by many) is fi rst mentioned in English in a dictionary by H.A. Giles under the character Ch'ou (p. 259. No. 2521). The entry reads: "Chou fu - stinking bean curd, noxious."

1902 Oct. 15 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English

as "Fermented bean-curd" (New York Tribune, Oct. 15).

1904 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English as "bean

curd cheese" (Geil 1904). This is the fi rst of many names containing the word "cheese." Indeed fermented tofu is one of the most delicious non-dairy (vegan) cheeses.

1906 (or 1951) - Quong Hop & Co. of San Francisco is

said to have started making fermented tofu. As recently as

1984, the company was making two popular types, sold in

glass jars - "Bean Cake (Fu-Yu)" and Pepper Bean Cake (with fl akes of hot chili peppers in the brining liquor). Note: Neither we nor the owners of Quong Hop & Co. have been able to fi nd any proof that the company even existed in

1906. The earliest record we have found that they existed is

from a 1930 San Francisco City Directory; they are listed as a grocery store at 135 Waverly Place. The earliest records we have found that they made fermented tofu are from two sources: (1) A listing and ad in a 1951 Yearbook; they were at 133 Waverly Place. (2) A listing in the 1951 San Francisco City Directory; their occupation is described simply as "bean cakes."

1909 Oct. 4 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English

as "soy bean cheese" (United States Land and Irrigation

Exposition).

1919 Dec. - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to as "fermented

cheese" in a British patent by Li Yu-ying of France. From this "fermented cheese" he has invented a way to make Western-style cheeses such a Roquefort, Parmesan, or Gruyere. It is interesting to note that all of these Western- style cheeses are traditional mold-ripened cheeses.

1912 - Tahuli or tahuri, fermented tofu made in the

Philippines, is fi rst described by Gibbs and Agcaoili.

1916 - Frank N. Meyer, USDA agricultural explorer in

China, fi rst encounters fermented tofu in China. He sends samples back to Washington, DC. His fi rst description reads: "Parcel No. 125c, contains fi rst quality Chinese soybean

cheese; please taste a little on the point of a knife; it is extremely appetising." In this future letters he also refers to

it as "Chinese bean cheese," or "bean cheese" He notes that there are several kinds of this soft cheese in China.

1917 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English as "foo-

yue" (Chan 1917). This is the fi rst of many names with this sound; others are fuyu, fu-yu, foo-yu, etc.

1918 - C.Y. Shih, writing in English from the Biology Dept.,

Soochow Univ., China, describes various types of fermented tofu: ju fu, tsao ju fu, chiang ju fu, ham ju fu, and chíing hsien ju fu.

1920 - Red fermented tofu is fi rst mentioned in English by

Margaret B. Church of the Bureau of Chemistry, USDA. She refers to it as "Chinese red cheese." It is made red by the use of red fermented rice or ang-kak. Church is also the fi rst to use the terms "Chinese cheese," "soy cheese," or "Chinese soy cheese" to refer to fermented tofu.

1929 Sept. 27 - The fi rst scienti

fi c studies on fermented tofu are published in a famous article titled "A new species of mono-mucor, Mucor sufu, on Chinese soybean cheese," by Nganshou Wai in the prestigious journal Science. Fermented tofu is referred to here (in English) as "sufu" or "tosufu" The writer is from the National Hygienic Laboratory, Shanghai, China. The name, which soon starts to be widely used in Western scientifi c publications, causes considerable confusion because (1) it is largely unknown by Chinese outside of the Shanghai area, and (2) it is not used on commercial products. Wai isolated the main microorganism thought to be responsible for the fermentation and identifi ed it as an new species of Mucor; he proposed the name Mucor sufu.

1944 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English as

"preserved tofu cheese" by De Gouy.

1946 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English as

"fermented tofu" by Arnold Marquis in a broadcast on NBC radio.

1948 - Fermented tofu is fi rst referred to in English as

"fermented soybean curd" by Manuel E. Arsenio in the

Philippines

1949 March - A.K. Smith, of the USDA Northern Regional

Research Lab. (Peoria, Illinois), after a trip to East Asia to study soyfoods, publishes a long and detailed article in Soybean Digest titled "Oriental use of soybeans as food," part of which concerns fermented tofu. He introduces three new varieties and describes how each is made: chee-fan, tsue-fan ("drunken cheese"), and hon-fan (a red cheese).

HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 7

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center

1968 - N.S. Wai, now living in Taiwan, publishes a fi nal

synopsis of his studies in a major report funded by the United States Agency for International Development.

1970s - Many types of fermented tofu begin to be imported

into the United States, especially from countries based on Chinese culture (China, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.).

1983-1984 - Four articles about delicious tofuyo, made

with red koji (beni-koji) are published in Japanese, in leading Japan scientifi c journals, by Dr. Masaaki Yasuda and colleagues at the Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, University of the Ryukyus (Ryukyu Islands), Okinawa. These included a detailed and carefully documented history (with 37 references) and precise description of the process by which tofuyo is made. With these articles Dr. Yasuda and colleagues introduce tofuyo to the world.

1985 March 9 - NHK TV, Japan's largest and most

respected television station, does a 30-minute documentary titled "Tofuyo" as part of its series "Today's Food." It is fi lmed in Okinawa.

1990-2010 - Dr. Masaaki Yasuda and colleagues in Okinawa

publish seven more scientifi c articles about tofuyo. This time all but the fi rst have a good English-language summary.

2010 Sept. 22 - Quong Hop & Co. fi les voluntarily for

Chapter 7 bankruptcy. The last U.S. maker of wine fermented tofu no longer exists - opening up a business opportunity!

2011 July 21 - CNN names "stinky tofu, a type of fermented

tofu, as one of the "World's 50 most delicious foods" (No. 41 out of 50).

2011 - "Fermented tofu, tofuyo," by Dr. Masaaki Yasuda of

Okinawa is published in English as a chapter in a free online book by InTech (Croatia). An excellent summary of his work, with 54 references, it contains good histories of both fermented tofu and of tofuyo.

2011 - Popular vegan cheeses in the United States are made

by Daiya, Galalaxy Nutritional Foods, and Chicago Soydairy (Teese); each has a website. Most melt, some stretch, The last two are soy-based. But whereas most Chinese love and use fermented tofu, very few vegans or vegetarians are even aware of it or even think of it. Alphabetical list of names of fermented tofu (useful for searching digital / electronic text):

Bean cake

Bean cheese or bean-cheese

Bean curd cheeseBeancurd, preserved

Chao

Chee-fan

Chiang ju fu

Chinese bean cheese

Chinese cheese

Chinese red cheese

Chinese soybean cheese

Chinese soy cheese

Ch'ing Hsien ju fu

Chou doufu

Ch'ou doufu

Ch'ou toufu or ch'ou tou-fu or ch'ou tou fu

Doufu-ru or or doufu ru or dou-fu-ru or dou-fu ru

Drunk sufu

Fermented cheese

Fermented curds

Fermented bean curd or fermented bean-curd

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