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Présentée et soutenue publiquement

le 3 octobre 2014 par

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Volume I

Directeur

de thèse :

Xavier

H

UETZ DE LEMPS

g'k. 3 M me

Maria Luisa T.

C AMAGAY, professeure d'histoire contemporaine, University of the

Philippines

M me

Marí

a Dolores E LIZALDE PÉREZ-GRUESO, directrice de recherches, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Instituto de Historia, Madrid M

Xavier

H UETZ DE LEMPS, professeur d'histoire contemporaine, Université Nice Sophia

Antipolis

M me

Claire

L AUX, professeure d'histoire contemporaine, Institut d'Études Politiques de

Bordeaux

M me

Silvia

M ARZAGALLI, professeure d'histoire contemporaine, Université Nice Sophia

Antipolis

CLOTHING AND THE COLONIAL CULTURE OF APPEARANCES IN NINETEENTH CENTURY SPANISH PHILIPPINES (1820-1896) For my mother, Liza R. Coo and my brother, Winston "Tonchi" Coo, w ho passed away during the course of writing this work... v9,y0 é5 8éfv0fvB yABv é5 v9,y0B A

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Data Processing Method

22

Design and Strategy

23

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Limits of Sources

35

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The Colonizers

44

The Colonized

46

Between Colonizers and Colonized

47

The Evolving Colonial Class System

49

Late 19

th century Colonial Class System 53
Clothing and Appearance in the Context of Evolving Social Relations 58 Connecting Clothing and Appearance with Race and Class 66

Social and Sartorial Mobilities 69

Clothing, Catholicism and Civilization 72

Non

Christianized Natives

75
Non

Christianized Women

80
Moros 81

Lowland, Christianized Natives 83

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C2 Evolution of Lowland, Christianized Women's Fashions 87

Philippine Style: Late 18

th

Century to 18

30s
89

Women from Northern Luzon and the Visayas 96

1840s
1860s
98

1860 onwards: The Tapís on the Discourse on Race and Class 105

Religious Accessories

120

Jackets and Overcoats

121

Women from the Common Classes

121
Evolution in the Context of the Changing Roles and Images of Women 130

The Education of Women

130

Cultural Representations of

Talented, Upper

Class Women

134
La india rica: The Look and Qualities of Urbanized, Wealthy Women 140

Fashion and the Feminine Character

146
Clothes in the Context of Evolving Gender Roles and Relations 148 Evolution of Lowland, Christianized Men's clothing 161 1820
1840
164

1840 onwards

167

Tucked out

171

Evolution of the Attires of Common Men

175

The Relationship between Labor and Clothes 183

Late 19

th century Clothing Changes: Signs of Progre ss or Unrest? 189

Convergence Explained

192

Mestizos

194
Mestizo Women's Fashions: Reconciling Clothes, Class and Race 196

The Two Mestizas

198

Mestizo Men

201

Racial, Cultural and Sartorial Hybridity 203

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Europeans

207

Clothing of Creole Men

208

Clothing of Creole Women

212

Peninsular and Other European Women

216

Spanish Governor

Generals

223
Peninsular and Other European Male Professionals 227

Other Europeans

232

Section Conclusion

240

Chinese in the Philippines

242

The Manchu Style: In Brief 244

The Clothing and Appearance of the Chinese Men in the Philippines 245

John Chinaman: The Wealthy chino comerciante 251

The Middling and Lower Classes

256

Chinese Women

261

Section Conclusion

262

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Ioo Cultural Values relating to Clothing and Appearance 267

Hygiene

267

Propriety

272

Modesty

280

Applications of Colonial Values in Dress 283

Clothing in Colonial Street Spectacles 283

Bajo las campanas: Life under the Church Bells 290

Death and Mourning

303

Rivers and Bathing

314

Leisure Time at Home

318
The Spectrum between Everyday and Special Attires 323

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The Gobernadorcillo and his Clothes 326

Children's Clothing

343

Students and the Appearance of

Òmay pinag

o aralanÓ 359

Convent School Girls

362

Male Students

365

Ilustrados

374

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Textile Production

383

Galleons and Textiles

383

Lowland Weaving Traditions 387

Types and Uses of Textiles

398

Textile Distribution

404

Street Weavers

405

Local Marketplaces 406

Provincial Exports To Manila

408

Sinamayeras

410

Chinese Entrepreneurs and Peddlers 417

From Cloth to Clothes

420

Sastres and Costureras

425

The Scrupulous and Unscrupulous Tailors

432

The Maintenance and Upkeep of Clothes 434

Cost of Hygiene

434

Laundry and the Lavanderas 437

Ironing and the Planchadoras

442

Advancements in the Clothes Trade

443

A Taste for the Imported

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