[PDF] Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth

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Thèse

de Doctorat d'Histoire pour obtenir le grade de

DOCTEUR DE L'UNIVERSITÉ NICE

SOPHIA

ANTIPOLIS

Présentée et soutenue publiquement

le 3 octobre 2014 par

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Volume I

Directeur

de thèse :

Xavier

H

UETZ DE LEMPS

g'k. 3 M me

Maria Luisa T.

C AMAGAY, professeure d'histoire contemporaine, University of the

Philippines

M me

Marí

a Dolores E LIZALDE PÉREZ-GRUESO, directrice de recherches, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Instituto de Historia, Madrid M

Xavier

H UETZ DE LEMPS, professeur d'histoire contemporaine, Université Nice Sophia

Antipolis

M me

Claire

L AUX, professeure d'histoire contemporaine, Institut d'Études Politiques de

Bordeaux

M me

Silvia

M ARZAGALLI, professeure d'histoire contemporaine, Université Nice Sophia

Antipolis

CLOTHING AND THE COLONIAL CULTURE OF APPEARANCES IN NINETEENTH CENTURY SPANISH PHILIPPINES (1820-1896) For my mother, Liza R. Coo and my brother, Winston "Tonchi" Coo, w ho passed away during the course of writing this work... v9,y0 é5 8éfv0fvB yABv é5 v9,y0B A

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Data Processing Method

22

Design and Strategy

23

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Limits of Sources

35

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The Colonizers

44

The Colonized

46

Between Colonizers and Colonized

47

The Evolving Colonial Class System

49

Late 19

th century Colonial Class System 53
Clothing and Appearance in the Context of Evolving Social Relations 58 Connecting Clothing and Appearance with Race and Class 66

Social and Sartorial Mobilities 69

Clothing, Catholicism and Civilization 72

Non

Christianized Natives

75
Non

Christianized Women

80
Moros 81

Lowland, Christianized Natives 83

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C2 Evolution of Lowland, Christianized Women's Fashions 87

Philippine Style: Late 18

th

Century to 18

30s
89

Women from Northern Luzon and the Visayas 96

1840s
1860s
98

1860 onwards: The Tapís on the Discourse on Race and Class 105

Religious Accessories

120

Jackets and Overcoats

121

Women from the Common Classes

121
Evolution in the Context of the Changing Roles and Images of Women 130

The Education of Women

130

Cultural Representations of

Talented, Upper

Class Women

134
La india rica: The Look and Qualities of Urbanized, Wealthy Women 140

Fashion and the Feminine Character

146
Clothes in the Context of Evolving Gender Roles and Relations 148 Evolution of Lowland, Christianized Men's clothing 161 1820
1840
164

1840 onwards

167

Tucked out

171

Evolution of the Attires of Common Men

175

The Relationship between Labor and Clothes 183

Late 19

th century Clothing Changes: Signs of Progre ss or Unrest? 189

Convergence Explained

192

Mestizos

194
Mestizo Women's Fashions: Reconciling Clothes, Class and Race 196

The Two Mestizas

198

Mestizo Men

201

Racial, Cultural and Sartorial Hybridity 203

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Europeans

207

Clothing of Creole Men

208

Clothing of Creole Women

212

Peninsular and Other European Women

216

Spanish Governor

Generals

223
Peninsular and Other European Male Professionals 227

Other Europeans

232

Section Conclusion

240

Chinese in the Philippines

242

The Manchu Style: In Brief 244

The Clothing and Appearance of the Chinese Men in the Philippines 245

John Chinaman: The Wealthy chino comerciante 251

The Middling and Lower Classes

256

Chinese Women

261

Section Conclusion

262

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Hygiene

267

Propriety

272

Modesty

280

Applications of Colonial Values in Dress 283

Clothing in Colonial Street Spectacles 283

Bajo las campanas: Life under the Church Bells 290

Death and Mourning

303

Rivers and Bathing

314

Leisure Time at Home

318
The Spectrum between Everyday and Special Attires 323

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The Gobernadorcillo and his Clothes 326

Children's Clothing

343

Students and the Appearance of

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o aralanÓ 359

Convent School Girls

362

Male Students

365

Ilustrados

374

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Textile Production

383

Galleons and Textiles

383

Lowland Weaving Traditions 387

Types and Uses of Textiles

398

Textile Distribution

404

Street Weavers

405

Local Marketplaces 406

Provincial Exports To Manila

408

Sinamayeras

410

Chinese Entrepreneurs and Peddlers 417

From Cloth to Clothes

420

Sastres and Costureras

425

The Scrupulous and Unscrupulous Tailors

432

The Maintenance and Upkeep of Clothes 434

Cost of Hygiene

434

Laundry and the Lavanderas 437

Ironing and the Planchadoras

442

Advancements in the Clothes Trade

443

A Taste for the Imported

443
Imported Textiles, Half-made and Ready-made Clothing 448

Imported Ready

Made Clothing for Provincial Orders

453

New Shopping Experience

454

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Tipos del pa"s

before the 19 th

Century

486

Tipos del pa"s

in the 19 th century 489

Tipos del pa"s

before the 1860s 489

Tipos del pa"s

after the 1860s 499

Photographs

501

Primary Material Source: Garments 503

Primary Written Sources

505

Travel Accounts.

505

Periodicals

508

Advertisements

513

Catalogues

514

Novels

516

Oral Sources: Interviews

521

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TABLE 1: EXISTING COLONIAL SOCIAL STRUCTURE 25

TABLE 2: PROPOSED SARTORIAL STRUCTURE 26

TABLE 3: ORGANIZATION OF PART II OF THIS DISSERTATION 27 TABLE 4: ESTIMATED POPULATION OF THE PHILIPPINES, 1890 228 TABLE 5: TEXTILE IMPORTS AND EXPORTS, 1844-1894 393 TABLE 6: VALUE OF PHILIPPINE COTTON TEXTILE IMPORTS FROM SPAIN AND THEIR RATIO TO TOTAL COTTON TEXTILE IMPORTS, 1883-1895 398

TABLE 7: COST OF LABOR 424

TABLE 8: AVERAGE HOUSEHOLD BUDGET, FOR A SINGLE PERSON, 1885 436A ii

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Stored in several wooden baúl were textiles of all kinds, which my grandmother collected through the years in preparation for the marriages of her seven children. It was customary among Philippine

Chinese

families like ours to present betrothal gifts of textiles and jewelry to the bride's family. I grew up hearing the words hablon (a type of woven textile), piña , jusi , borda (embroidery) while surrounded by costureras (seamstresses), who came in the morning and went home at dusk. My interest in studying the socio-cultural and economic context of dress was a consequence of these childhood experiences. I would like to posthumously thank my good friend, Randolph de Jesus, who led me to combine my interests in history, textiles and clothing by studying them 'historically.' I will be forever grateful to my adviser, Dr. Xavier Huetz de Lemps - the best adviser any Ph.D. student could ever have whose wise words never failed to steer me into the right direction. Thank you for generously taking the time to read, discuss, offer comments and suggestions as I struggled to read and survive in French, do research in Spanish, transla te, organize and write my work. Heartfelt thanks to Dr. Francis Gealogo for seeing past my frivolity and for actually believing in me. His critical reading of some parts of my manuscript was truly invaluable. To Dr. Filomeno Aguilar who, in seeing that I was struggling with access to scholarly journals, made sure that the resources of the Rizal Library would be made available to me, even if I was on- leave and offshore. I am also grateful for the warm welcome and assistance that Dr. Silvia Marz agalli (CMMC) extended to me. I was extremely fortunate to have the support of the Erasmus Mundus Mobility with Asia (EMMA) during the period I was doing research and writing my dissertation. I wish to specifically thank Dr. Marc and Francine Diener for providing assistance throughout the course of my studies and my sojourn here in France I would also like to thank Ana Tomás Hernández and Ana López Pajarón of the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Madrid, who allowed me to inspect the actual 19 th century garments in their collection. I also appreciate the book on Oi-a that MNA Director, Pilar Romero de Tejada gave me. I would also like to thank Dr. Elvira González Asenjo of the Museo del Traje in Madrid, who despite the rush during fas hion week, took the time to show me, among other things, the nipis baptismal gown of King Alfonso XIII. I also appreciate the assistance of the kind and helpful staff of Hemeroteca Municipal in Madrid. iii

Certainly, I will n

ot forget the charming and jolly, Fr. Policarpo Hernández, who took out stacks of 19 th century periodicals for me to peruse over at the Estudio Teológico Agustiniano de Valladolid To my former Theology Professor and mentor, Fr. Carlito "Gwapo" Reyes, I owe my undying gratitude for his encouragement, friendship and continuous support. To Dr. Franz Wendler, who taught me how to adopt some of the organizational methods used in the natural sciences to my study. Thank you also for putting up with my lengthy writing process and for making sure that I ate well and that I never got cold while writing during winter. I would also like to thank soon to be Dr. Christian Chanshio. The creation of a database with hyperlinks, which proved to be crucial in organizing my research, would not have been possible if not for his time, effort and skills. I owe a special debt of gratitude to Marian Pastor-Roces, who took the time to share a meal with me and to give me initial advice on which museums to consult in Europe. I would also like to thank my master's thesis adviser, Dr. Olivia M. Habana, who I have always drawn upon for recommendations and counsel. To Dr. Roy Mendoza, who during the early stages of my research, sent me titles of books relevant to my study. I give thanks to my friends, Ziggy Lopez and Peaches Camus, whose presence made Madrid my home away from home. I am also deeply grateful to Dr. Pauline Robvieux, who unhesitatingly helped me translate my one hundred- page abstract from English to French. Special thanks to Jonathan Loisy who took the time to correct some of the translations I made. To Dr. Hazel Arceo and Dr. Elizabeth Naui, I give my thanks for always being there to lend a helping h and. Also helpful were the conversations I carried on with soon-to-be Dr. Katherine Lacson, who patiently listened and spent time with me discussing about Philippine history - and about life in general. I am also grateful to EMMA coordinators, Julie

Guilla

umat and Emmanuel Losero, who made academic life here in France a little bit easier. Special mention should also be made to all my colleagues at the Ateneo de Manila History Department, whose friendship made work truly enjoyable. To my landlord, Eric Chaudron and Veronique Thuin, for opening their home to me here in France -thank you, for even going so far as to help me find somebody who could translate my work from English to French.

Finally, I mu

st thank my family for supporting me and seeing me through the various stages of my life. They are always the most proud of me. My grandfather, Guillermo Coo, who, much to our surprise, would sometimes wear his barong tucked, is always the happiest when I come home. My endearing uncle, Ernesto Coo, whose effort of getting his iv saleslady/costurera to put three old, raggedy t-shirts together to create a new, multi-colored bespoke shirt makes me giggle every time. I would also like to posthumously thank my grandmother, Nena Coo, whose textile hoarding turned out to be very meaningful and my adorable brother Tonchi, who, during the early stages of my research, helped me take photographs of books and documents. He always offered to help me in any way he could. And last but not the least, this work is for my two aunties, Jenny Coo and Maria Eva Coo Valde rrama, who, as I was growing up, encouraged me and nurtured my various skills and interests, from calligraphy, oration, art, ballet to piano. Thank you, co, for always being there for me and for loving me unconditionally. v

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I.

General

After consultation, the convention the writer adopted involved referring to herself in the third person. The figures/illustrations and the abstract translated to the French language are in a separate volume (Volume II)

Volume II will not be publ

ished. The citation style that was used --Chicago Manual of Style, 16 th edition, full note does not include the abbreviations p. and pp. before the page numbers. The p. and pp. abbreviati ons only appear if the chapter numbers are indicated.quotesdbs_dbs27.pdfusesText_33

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