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FIRENZE

UNIVERSITY

PRESSL? ??? ?? ??? ????: ??? ?? ???, ? ? ????, ?????? ????

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FUP edited by

Giampiero Nigro

La moda come motore economico: innovazione di processo e prodotto, nuove strategie commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial strategies, consumer behavior

Giampiero Nigro

DATINI STUDIES

IN ECONOMIC HISTORY

D?? S? E H?

2 FONDAZIONE ISTITUTO INTERNAZIONALE DI STORIA ECONOMICA "F. DATINI»

Director

Giampiero Nigro, University of Florence, Italy

President

Erik Aerts, KU Leuven, Catholic University of Louvain, Belgium

International Scientific Boar

d

Guido Alfani, Bocconi University, Italy

Càtia Antunes, Leiden University, Netherlands

Philippe Bernardi, Panthéon-Sorbonne Paris 1 University,

France

Hilario Casado Alonso, University of Valladolid, Spain

Giuseppe De Luca, University of Milan, Italy

Markus A. Denzel, Leipzig University, Germany

Marco Doria, University of Genoa, Italy

Giulio Fenicia, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy

Gerhard Fouquet, Kiel University , Germany

Franco Franceschi, University of Siena, Italy

Maria Fusaro, University of Exeter, United Kingdom Olga Katsiardi-Hering, University of Athens, Greece Dariusz Kolodziejczyk, University of Warsaw, Poland Maryanne Kowaleski, Fordham University, United States Carlos Laliena Corbera, University of Zaragoza, Spain

Germano Maifreda, University of Milan, Ital

y Paolo Malanima, University of Catanzaro Magna Graecia, Italy

Leonardo Meoni, Archivio di Stato di Prato, Italy

Pellegrino Gerardo Nicolosi, University of Siena, Italy

Michael North, University of Greifswald, Germany

Angela Orlandi, University of Florence, Italy

Erol Ozvar, Marmara University, Turkey

Giuseppe Petralia, University of Pisa, Italy

Gaetano Sabatini, Roma Tre University, Italy

Renzo Sabbatini, University of Siena, Italy

Philipp Schofield, Aberystwyth University, United Kingdom

Anti Selart, University of Tartu, Estonia

Ephraim Shoham-Steiner, Ben-Gurion University of the

Negev, Israel

Dominique Valerian, Panthéon-Sorbonne Paris 1 University,

France

International Advisory B

oard Maurice Aymard, EHESS, School of Advanced Studies in the

Social Sciences, France

Michael Balard, Panthéon-Sorbonne Paris 1 University, France

Wim Blockmans, Leiden University, Netherlands

Giorgio Borelli, University of Verona, Italy

Michele Cassandro, University of Siena, Italy

Marco Cattini, Bocconi University, Italy

Murat Cizakça, KTO Karatay University, Turkey

Mario Del Treppo, University of Naples Federico II, Italy Arnold Esch, DHI, German Historical Institute in Rome, Italy Laurence Fontaine, EHESS, School of Advanced Studies in the Social Sciences, France

Luciana Frangioni, University of Molise, Italy

Richard Goldtwhaite, Johns Hopkins University, United States

Alberto Grohmann, University of Perugia, Italy

Alberto Guenzi, University of Parma, Italy

Paulino Iradiel Murugarren, University of València, Spain Sergey Pavlovich Karpov, LomonosovMoscow State Uni- versity, Russian Federation Miguel Ángel Ladero Quesada, Complutense University of

Madrid, Spain

Elio Lodolini, University of Rome La Sapienza, Italy Adam Manikowski, Polish Academy of Sciences, Poland

Paola Massa, University of Genoa, Italy

Anthony Molho, European University Institute, Italy Giovanni Muto, University of Naples Federico II, Italy

Luciano Palermo, Tuscia University, Italy

Paola Pierucci, Gabriele d'Annunzio University, Italy Christopher Smout, University of St Andrews, United

Kingdom

Michael Toch, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Israel Herman Van der Wee, KU Leuven, Catholic University of

Louvain, Belgium

Valentín Vazquez de Prada, University of Navarra, Spain

Giovanni Zalin, University of Verona, Italy

Managing edito

r Francesco Ammannati, University of Florence, Italy

FIRENZE UNIVERSITY PRESS

2022
FONDAZIONE ISTITUTO INTERNAZIONALE DI STORIA ECONOMICA "F. DATINI»

Director

Giampiero Nigro, University of Florence, Italy

President

Erik Aerts, KU Leuven, Catholic University of Louvain, Belgium

International Scientific Boar

d

Guido Alfani, Bocconi University, Italy

Càtia Antunes, Leiden University, Netherlands

Philippe Bernardi, Panthéon-Sorbonne Paris 1 University,

France

Hilario Casado Alonso, University of Valladolid, Spain

Giuseppe De Luca, University of Milan, Italy

Markus A. Denzel, Leipzig University, Germany

Marco Doria, University of Genoa, Italy

Giulio Fenicia, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy

Gerhard Fouquet, Kiel University , Germany

Franco Franceschi, University of Siena, Italy

Maria Fusaro, University of Exeter, United Kingdom Olga Katsiardi-Hering, University of Athens, Greece Dariusz Kolodziejczyk, University of Warsaw, Poland Maryanne Kowaleski, Fordham University, United States Carlos Laliena Corbera, University of Zaragoza, Spain

Germano Maifreda, University of Milan, Ital

y Paolo Malanima, University of Catanzaro Magna Graecia, Italy

Leonardo Meoni, Archivio di Stato di Prato, Italy

Pellegrino Gerardo Nicolosi, University of Siena, Italy

Michael North, University of Greifswald, Germany

Angela Orlandi, University of Florence, Italy

Erol Ozvar, Marmara University, Turkey

Giuseppe Petralia, University of Pisa, Italy

Gaetano Sabatini, Roma Tre University, Italy

Renzo Sabbatini, University of Siena, Italy

Philipp Schofield, Aberystwyth University, United Kingdom

Anti Selart, University of Tartu, Estonia

Ephraim Shoham-Steiner, Ben-Gurion University of the

Negev, Israel

Dominique Valerian, Panthéon-Sorbonne Paris 1 University,

France

International Advisory B

oard Maurice Aymard, EHESS, School of Advanced Studies in the

Social Sciences, France

Michael Balard, Panthéon-Sorbonne Paris 1 University, France

Wim Blockmans, Leiden University, Netherlands

Giorgio Borelli, University of Verona, Italy

Michele Cassandro, University of Siena, Italy

Marco Cattini, Bocconi University, Italy

Murat Cizakça, KTO Karatay University, Turkey

Mario Del Treppo, University of Naples Federico II, Italy Arnold Esch, DHI, German Historical Institute in Rome, Italy Laurence Fontaine, EHESS, School of Advanced Studies in the Social Sciences, France

Luciana Frangioni, University of Molise, Italy

Richard Goldtwhaite, Johns Hopkins University, United States

Alberto Grohmann, University of Perugia, Italy

Alberto Guenzi, University of Parma, Italy

Paulino Iradiel Murugarren, University of València, Spain Sergey Pavlovich Karpov, LomonosovMoscow State Uni- versity, Russian Federation Miguel Ángel Ladero Quesada, Complutense University of

Madrid, Spain

Elio Lodolini, University of Rome La Sapienza, Italy Adam Manikowski, Polish Academy of Sciences, Poland

Paola Massa, University of Genoa, Italy

Anthony Molho, European University Institute, Italy Giovanni Muto, University of Naples Federico II, Italy

Luciano Palermo, Tuscia University, Italy

Paola Pierucci, Gabriele d'Annunzio University, Italy Christopher Smout, University of St Andrews, United

Kingdom

Michael Toch, The Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Israel Herman Van der Wee, KU Leuven, Catholic University of

Louvain, Belgium

Valentín Vazquez de Prada, University of Navarra, Spain

Giovanni Zalin, University of Verona, Italy

Managing edito

r Francesco Ammannati, University of Florence, Italy

La moda come motore economico: innovazione di

processo e prodotto, nuove strategie commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori/ Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial strategies, consumer behavior edited by

Giampiero Nigro

F

IRENZE UNIVERSITY PRESS

2022
FUP Best Practice in Scholarly Publishing (DOI h?ps://doi.org/10.36253/fup_best_practice)

All publications are submi?ed to an external refereeing process under the responsibility of the FUP Editorial Board

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publishing house, and must be compliant with the Peer review policy, the Open Access, Copyright and Licensing

policy and the Publication Ethics and Complaint policy.

Firenze University Press Editorial Board

M. Garzaniti (Editor-in-Chief), M.E. Alberti, F. Vi?orio Arrigoni, E. Castellani, F. Ciampi, D. D'Andrea, A. Dol?, R.

Ferrise, A. Lambertini, R. Lanfredini, D. Lippi, G. Mari, A. Mariani, P.M. Mariano, S. Marinai, R. Minuti, P. Nanni, A.

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via Ciaadella, 7, 50144 Firenze, Italy www.fupress.com ?is book is printed on acid-?ee paper Printed in ItalyLa moda come motore economico: innovazione di processo e prodotto, nuove strategie commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori / Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial strategies, consumer behavior / a cura di Giampiero

Nigro. - Firenze: Firenze University Press, 2022

(Datini Studies in Economic History ; 2)

ISBN 978-88-5518-564-6 (Print)

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DOI 10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3

Graphic design: Alberto Pizarro Fernández, Lettera Meccanica SRLs Front cover: Rielaborazione grauca del manifesto della LII Settimana di

Studi. Autrice: Letizia Finocchiaro

La Settimana di Studi è stata realizzata con il contributo di: Ministero dei beni e delle attività culturali e del turismo La Settimana di Studi è stata realizzata con il contributo di: Ministero dei beni e delle attività culturali e del turismo FUP Best Practice in Scholarly Publishing (DOI 10.36253/fup_best_practice)

All publications are submitted to an external refereeing process under the responsibility of the FUP Editorial

Board and the Scientific Boards of the series. The works published are evaluated and approved by the Editorial

Board of the publishing house, and must be compliant with the Peer review policy, the Open Access, Copyright

and Licensing policy and the Publication Ethics and Complaint policy.

Firenze University Press Editorial Board

M. Garzaniti (Editor-in-Chief), M.E.Alberti, F.F.V. Arrigoni, E. Castellani, F. Ciampi, D. D'Andrea, A. Dolfi, R.

Ferrise, A. Lambertini, R. Lanfredini, D. Lippi, G. Mari, A. Mariani, P.M. Mariano, S. Marinai, R. Minuti, P. Nanni, A. Orlandi, I. Palchetti. A, Perulli, G. Pratesi, S. Scaramuzzi, I. Stolzi. The online digital edition is published in Open Access on www.fupress.com.

Content license: the present work is released under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International license (CC

BY 4.0: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode). This license allows you to share any part of the

work by any means and format, modify it for any purpose, including commercial, as long as appropriate credit is

given to the author, any changes made to the work are in dicated and a URL link is provided to the license.

Metadata license: all the metadata are released under the Public Domain Dedication license (CC0 1.0 Universal:

© 2022 Author(s)

Published by Firenze University Press

Firenze University Press

Università degli Studi di Firenze

via Cittadella, 7, 50144

Firenze, Italy

www.fupress.com

INDICE

ERIK AERTS, Economia e moda: una relazione bilaterale .......................................... pag. 1

M

ARIA GIUSEPPINA MUZZARELLI, Prolusione ............................................................ » 5

I

NNOVAZIONI DI PRODOTTI E PROCESSI

I

NNOVATIONS IN PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES

TATIANA MARKAKI, Innovations and the art of deception: mixed cloths in Venetian Crete (17 th

century) ..................................................................................... pag. 15

L LUÍS TO FIGUERAS, Drapers and tailors. Fashion and consumption in medieval Catalonia ...................................................................... ................................. » 25 J OHN STYLES, Re-fashioning Industrial Revolution. Fibres, fashion and technical

innovation in British cotton textiles, 1600-1780 .......................................................... » 45

G ERMÁN NAVARRO ESPINACH, JOAQUÍN APARICI MARTÍ, The colour of Valencian

silk fabrics in the European market (1475-1513) ......................................................... » 73

L AUREL ANN WILSON, The impact of technological change on medieval fashion » 93 N ADIA FERNÁNDEZ DE PINEDO, MARIA PAZ MORAL, EMILIANO FERNÁNDEZ DE PINEDO, Un changement radical dans la consommation de tissus par la royauté

et son milieu (1293-1504): de la laine au lin et à la soie .............................................. » 119

J ULIEN VILLAIN, L'innovation de produit et les dynamiques de l'offre sur les marchés des étoffes de laine dans la France du XVIII e siècle. Quelques aperçus quantitatifs et qualitatifs. ....................................................................... ................................................... » 147 S

TRATEGIE COMMERCIALI

C

OMMERCIAL STRATEGIES

M the trade in fashionable waistcoats between France and Italy in the second half of the 18 th century ........................................................................ .................................. pag. 173 D ANIEL MUÑOZ NAVARRO, The virus of fashion. Democratization of luxury

and new commercial strategies in early modern Valencia .......................................... » 201

K LAS NYBERG, The production of international fashion in state-sponsored

manufactures in Sweden-Finland, 1740-1810. Part I .................................................. » 221

A RIS KAFANTOGIAS, The catalyst of change. The clothing of the Viennese servants

and their relation to fashion in the period 1760-1823 ................................................ » 251

INDICE

ERIK AERTS, Economia e moda: una relazione bilaterale .......................................... pag. 1

M

ARIA GIUSEPPINA MUZZARELLI, Prolusione ............................................................ » 5

I

NNOVAZIONI DI PRODOTTI E PROCESSI

I

NNOVATIONS IN PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES

TATIANA MARKAKI, Innovations and the art of deception: mixed cloths in Venetian Crete (17 th

century) ..................................................................................... pag. 15

L LUÍS TO FIGUERAS, Drapers and tailors. Fashion and consumption in medieval Catalonia ...................................................................... ................................. » 25 J OHN STYLES, Re-fashioning Industrial Revolution. Fibres, fashion and technical

innovation in British cotton textiles, 1600-1780 .......................................................... » 45

G ERMÁN NAVARRO ESPINACH, JOAQUÍN APARICI MARTÍ, The colour of Valencian

silk fabrics in the European market (1475-1513) ......................................................... » 73

L AUREL ANN WILSON, The impact of technological change on medieval fashion » 93 N ADIA FERNÁNDEZ DE PINEDO, MARIA PAZ MORAL, EMILIANO FERNÁNDEZ DE PINEDO, Un changement radical dans la consommation de tissus par la royauté

et son milieu (1293-1504): de la laine au lin et à la soie .............................................. » 119

J ULIEN VILLAIN, L'innovation de produit et les dynamiques de l'offre sur les marchés des étoffes de laine dans la France du XVIII e siècle. Quelques aperçus quantitatifs et qualitatifs. ....................................................................... ................................................... » 147 S

TRATEGIE COMMERCIALI

C

OMMERCIAL STRATEGIES

M the trade in fashionable waistcoats between France and Italy in the second half of the 18 th century ........................................................................ .................................. pag. 173 D ANIEL MUÑOZ NAVARRO, The virus of fashion. Democratization of luxury

and new commercial strategies in early modern Valencia .......................................... » 201

K LAS NYBERG, The production of international fashion in state-sponsored

manufactures in Sweden-Finland, 1740-1810. Part I .................................................. » 221

A RIS KAFANTOGIAS, The catalyst of change. The clothing of the Viennese servants

and their relation to fashion in the period 1760-1823 ................................................ » 251

La moda come motore economico: innovazione di processo e prodotto, nuove strategie

commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori / Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial

strategies, consumer behavior

INDICE

CAMBIAMENTI NEL COMPORTAMENTO DEI CONSUMATORI

C

HANGES IN CONSUMER BEHAVIOR

P ETER STABEL, Unlikely followers of fashion? Dressing the poor in late medieval Br uges ........................................................................ ............................ pag. 293 M ÁXIMO GARCÍA FERNÁNDEZ, Keeping up appearances in early modern Castile » 319 J UAN VICENTE GARCÍA MARSILLA, LUIS ALMENAR FERNÁNDEZ, Fashion, emulation and social classes in late medieval Valencia. Exploring textile consumption through probate inventories ................................................................... » 341 E LIZABETH CURRIE, Action men: martial fashions in Florence, 1530-1630 ........... » 367 T

AVOLA ROTONDA

R

OUND TABLE

S

ALVATORE CIRIACONO, Tavola rotonda ...................................................................... p

ag. 391 M ARYANNE KOWALESKI, Round Table comment. Fashion as an economic engine:quotesdbs_dbs26.pdfusesText_32

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