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©2017

Tashima Thomas

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

AN IMPERIAL DIET: FROM CACAO TO COCONUTS REPRESENTING EDIBLE BODIES IN THE AMERICAS FROM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO THE PRESENT by

TASHIMA THOMAS

A dissertation submitted to the

Graduate School-New Brunswick

Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey

In partial fulfillment of the requirements

For the degree of

Doctor of Philosophy

Graduate Program in Art History

Written under the direction of

Dr. Tatiana Flores

And approved by

New Brunswick, New Jersey

May 2017

ii

ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION

An Imperial Diet: From Cacao to Coconuts Representing Edible Bodies in the Americas from the Eighteenth Century to the Present

By TASHIMA THOMAS

Dissertation Director:

Dr. Tatiana Flores

This dissertation endeavors to prove through a series of visual mediations that the alimentary tract signifies a gastropoetical dialectic between the eater and the eaten. Alimentary

discourse is capable of developing a visual language that illustrates the interiority of appetites of

empire through the politics of provender. In this study sugar, cacao, pineapples, and coconuts operate as a lens to view the scaffolding of social and artistic strategies. This project is committed to the excavation of image construction, the visual representation of the African Diaspora in the Americas, and understanding the formation of gastronomical narratives through colonial discourse. Anthropologist Sidney W. Mintz suggests that anthropology has the capabilities to answer the outside and inside meanings of food pathways; but so far it has not

done so. This dissertation will be able to offer insight into these issues. In a way, this work calls

out what I consider obvious omissions regarding the connections between art history, the visual archive, and tropical food pathways by clearly articulating the power of these foods to transform cultures of vision and the induction of a modern world system. Ultimately, my dissertation

offers a critical study of race, gender, sexuality, transnational, and transhistorical food pathways.

iii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to thank Dr. Henry C. Kinley for making all things possible. Whose love, guidance, graciousness, and eternal kindness has been a tremendous encouragement and sanctuary. I would like to thank the members of my committee for their support. For their financial and moral support I would like to thank the Ford Foundation and the Rutgers Center for Cultural Analysis. I also am grateful for a very special tribe of artists, academics, and angels especially, Marsha Thompson, Abigail Lapin Dardashti, Nkeiru Okoye, Sybil Cooksey, Allison

Harbin, and James and Valencia Green.

iv

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Abstract p. ii

Acknowledgements p. iii

Table of Contents p. iv

List of Illustrations p. v

Introduction p. 1

Chapter One

Sugar p. 20

Chapter Two

Cacao p. 83

Chapter Three

Pineapples p. 135

Chapter Four

Coconuts p. 169

Conclusion p. 209

Illustrations p. 210

Bibliography p. 227

v

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Chapter 1

Fig.s 1.1-1.3 Photographs from The Latin American Library at Tulane University and from The Amistad Research Center in New Orleans, c. late 19th century-early 20th century. Fig. 1.4 Adolphe Duperly & Son. Banana Carriers. Jamaica. Photographs from The Latin American Library at Tulane University and from The Amistad Research Center in

New Orleans, c. 1905.

Fig. 1.5 John Genin, Allegory of Sugar Cane, 1884. Fig. 1.6 Andrea Chung, Bain de Mer, (Helmuth Projects), video still, 2013.

Figs. 1.7-1.9 Andrea Chung, Bato Disik, 2013.

Fig. 1.10 Andrea Chung, Sink and Swim, 2013.

Fig. 1.11 Vik Muniz, Valicia Bathes in Sunday Clothes, from the series Portraits of the

Sugar Children, 1996.

Fig. 1.12 Vik Muniz, Big James Sweats Buckets, from the series Portraits of the Sugar

Children, 1996.

Fig. 1.13 Kara Walker, A Subtlety or the Marvelous Sugar Baby, 2014. Fig. 1.14 Kara Walker, A Subtlety or the Marvelous Sugar Baby, (sugar boy), 2014. Fig. 1.15 Batlhsar Permoser, Moor with Emerald Cluster, c. 1724. Fig. 1.16 Kara Walker, A Subtlety or the Marvelous Sugar Baby, (close up), 2014. vi

Chapter 2

Fig. 2.1 Marcel Duchamp, Chocolate Grinder Number 1, 1913. Fig. 2.2 Marcel Duchamp, Chocolate Grinder Number 2, 1914.

Fig. 2.3 Oscar Murillo, A Mercantile Novel, 2014.

Chapter 3

Fig. 3.1 Hendrick Danckerts, King Charles II, receiving gift of a pineapple from the Royal

Gardener, John Rose, 1675.

Fig. 3.2 Agostino Brunias, the Island of Dominica, ca. 1779. Fig. 3.3 Agostino Brunias, A Linen Market with a Linen-stall and Vegetable Seller in the

West Indies, ca. 1780.

Fig. 3.4 Francois Beaucourt, Painting. Bust-length portrait of a black / mulatto slave woman holding a plate of tropical fruits, including a pineapple, 1786. Fig. 3.5 La Masurier, A Mulatto Woman with Her White Daughter Visited by Negro

Women in Their House in Martinique, ca. 1775.

Fig. 3.6 Agostino Brunias, Free Women of Color with Their Children and Servants in a

Landscape, ca. 1770-96.

Figs. 3.7-3.8 Agostino Brunias, , c. 18th century.

Chapter 4

Fig. 4.1 Francisco Oller, Still Life with Coconuts, c. 1893. Fig. 4.2 Francisco Oller, Self-Portrait, 1889-1892. Fig. 4.3 Francisco Oller, Still Life with Plantains, c. 1893.

Figs. 4.4-4.5 Heino Schmid, Landmines, 2011-2012.

vii Fig. 4.6 Power Figure (Nkisi N'Kondi: Mangaaka), Kongo Peoples; Yombe Group, 19th century. Fig. 4.7 Nkisi N'Kondi, Kongo Peoples, 19th century.

Conclusion

Fig. 5.1 Wangechi Mutu, The End of Eating Everything, video still, 2013. 1

INTRODUCTION

An Imperial Diet: From Cacao to Coconuts Representing Edible Bodies in the Americas from the Eighteenth Century to the Present I believe that the taste of freedom and the taste of food may be much more closely linked than they seem at first to be. ---Sidney W. Mintz, Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom, 1996 Food is personal. Food is at once personal and then we personalize food with our customs, religious beliefs, fad diets, ethical eating, fair trade, and personal preferences. However, in its final installment, food becomes our person. Through the process of digestion the nutrients from what we consume become assimilated into our bodies absorbing fats, proteins, and carbohydrates so that the food and the body become one. As the old adage goes ZKDWZHHDWquotesdbs_dbs14.pdfusesText_20

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