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EATING,DRINKING AND

RE-THINKING: MARGUERITEDURAS"S

MODERATOCA NTABILE(1958)

RUTHCRUICKSHANK

ABSTRACT

Re-thinkingfood, drinkand appetiteoffers new wa ys ofexploringsubjectivity , self-Otherrela tionsandtextualproduction. Like language,foodand drinkare human necessitieswhich alwa yscarrysurchargesofmeaning .Mor eover,there is anuntapped conv ergenceoftheoreticalapproa ches relatedto appetite.This article drawsonar ange:s tructuralis t(BarthesandLe

´vi-Strauss);pos t-Marxist

(Bourdieu); feminist(Beauvoir andCixous);pos t-Fr eudian(Lacan);pos tstructur- alist(Derrida), andsocio-anthr opological(Fisc hler).Itexplor estheirpotential byanaly singrepresenta tionsoffoodanddrinkinDuras" sModeratocantabile. Stimulatingcriticalappetites anew ,sur prisingleftoversofr ealismareidentified, and newreadings ofthenov elr eveal classandgenderconstructs.The discus- sion thene xamineshowthe appetitiveisintertwined withtensions boundup in desire,lackand repressedtr aumaas wellastheincorpor ationoffood and drink, intur nelucidatingthe anxietiesandambivalenceinher entin thecons ti- tution ofthe self, powerr elationsandrepresenta tionalpractice. Keywords:food; drink;incor poration;Barthes,Roland;Beauv oir,Simonede; Bourdieu, Pierre;Derrida,J acques; Duras,Marguerite;Lacan, Jacques;

Moderatocantabile

FOOD ANDDRINK - likelanguage- are basichuman necessitieswhichalwa ys carry surchargesofmeaning .Ea tinganddrinkingpla yimportants tructural and symbolicr olesinfiction.Y etthe yal soexceedthose functions,openingup furtherinterpr etativepossibilities.Indee dthepotentialofliteraryreprese ntations off oodanddri nkhasy ettobeful lyexp loited,de spi teth eextraordina rywealthof post-WarFrencht houghtthatconce rns,orissu ggestive for,questionsofappe tite, eatinganddri nking. Thisarticletakes asacasest udyMarguerite Duras"sModerato cantabile(1958), 1 a novelassoci atedwiththeanti-realis texperi mental writing which markedthepos t-War Frenchliterary field.Thediscussionbringstobear on thisw ell-knowntextadiv erserangeof criticalperspectiv esinvolving eating and drinkingto demons tratehowre-thinkingrepr esentationsoffood anddrink can stimulatecriticalappetitesane w.Exploringthe potentialof arangeofsuch theoreticalapproa chesbydrawing onthemtoanaly serepresentationsof food and drinkin Moderatocantabile identifies someof them ultiple functionsof #TheAuthor (2013).Pub lishedbyOxfo rdUniversityPr essf ortheCourtofthe Universityof StAndr ews.

All rightsreserve d.TheUnivers ityofS tAndrewsisacharityregister edin Scotland:No. SC013532.ForumforModer nLanguage StudiesVol.00,No.00, doi:10.1093/fmls/cqt003

Forum for Modern Language Studies Advance Access published May 14, 2013

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appetite- material, figurative andtextual-andthemeanings (andambigu- ities) boundupwith them. As wellasgiving lifeb yr espondingto hungerandthirst, eatinganddrin king servecomple xcultural, politicalandpsychologicalfunctions andar epart ofa weaveofmor eor lessunacknowledgedtensionsand repr essede xperiences. As formsofcultu ral production,theprepar ationandchoiceoffood anddrink (and theirwithdr awal,prohibitionandr egulation)perpetuate ideologiesand playimportant partsin establishing andshoring upgenderandclass constructs. Seekingto assuageph ysical hungerbytheincorpor ation offoodstuffssim ultan- eously involvesinsideandoutside;the possibilities ofpleasur eand ofmortal danger;the assertionof subjectivity; andthe breachingof thesubject" sinteg rity. Appetiteis alsoine xtricable fromdesire,la ckandsexuality .Moreover ,food and drinkar eatonce materialand inseparable fromtheimaginary,and eating and drinkingparallel andinvite questions oftherelationshipbetw eenselfand Other; consciousand unconscious; past,presen tandfuture; andideological constructsand cultural production.A surprisinglywiderangeof post-W ar Frenchthoughte xplores orislegiblethroughea tingand drinking. Infa ctappe- tite,food anddrink are intrinsicto manyrecenttheor eticala ttemptsto gr apple with thecomple xitiesofpow err elations,subjectivityandlanguage .Andbring- ing togetherdiv ersecriticalapproa chesto eatinganddrinkingcandemons tra te the implicationsofappetite ,food anddrinkforques tions ofideolog yand differ- ence; ofthe unconscious,desir eand trauma;andof signifyingpr actice. Such questionsare theverymea tof literaryanalysis, andthisarticlee xplores and demonstratesthecriticalpotential ofr e-thinkingthroughea tingand drink- ing.The discussionbegins by consideringModeratocantabile in termsofthe roles playedby eatinganddrinking inthestructur eand symbolism ofthe text, reveal- ing surprisingleftover aestheticsofrealism,wher ebyfoodand drinkcont inueto satisfyr eaders"hungerforcoher encein anos tensiblyavant-gardework. Thein- vestigationoffoods tuffsin Moderatocantabilecontinues byexploring how alimentaryc hoicescontribute toideologicalconstructsincludin gclass and gender distinction(andho wr esultinginequitiesmay beperpetuated ra therthan effectivelychallenged, atonceb yDuras"s implicitly criticalrepres entationsof them andb ystructuralis t,post-Marxistandfeministcriticism). Drawingonpost- structuralistandpost-F reudian thoughtprovidestheopportunityto examine further suchdou blebinds,andthen toidentify instan ceswher ethe appetitive is intertwinedwith desire andlackas well aswithther eturn ofrepressed traumas and thepla yofthesignifier .Afte rdemons tratingthe potentialforliter aryana- lysisof theseinsights andtheir intersections withsocio-anthr opological perspectiveson incorpor ation,theconclusionexploresthe tensionsbound upin the consumptionoffood anddrink andthe fascinating wa ys inwhich they reflectthose inherenti nselfhoodandcult uralpro duction.Througho ut,the ana- lysisdra wsoninters ecti ngcriticalperspectivestor e-thinkappetite,fo odand drinkand offerne wreadings ofDuras "snovel,aswell asin sightsintosubjecti vity, self-Otherrelations andrepresentationalpr actice .

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Realistlefto vers

It isw ellknowntha tfoodiscentr altotheninetee nth-centuryF renc hnovel. As Jean-PierreRichardfam ouslyasserts inhisessay Litte´ratureetsensation :

‘On mangebeaucoupdans lesr omansde Flaubert ."

2

Critics haveconsidered

images ofea tinganddrinkingin realis tfict ionas meansofprecipitatinga ction and characterization;asrealityeffects,metaphorsand metonymies; andin termsof theirphenomenol ogicaland sociologicalconnotations. 3

WhilstDur as

rejectedthe labellingof herno vel asa nouveaur oman, 4 and, unlikethenouveaux romanciers, didnot publisha manifes tositua tingherwritingasar adicaldepart- urefr omnineteenth-centuryr ealism,Moderatocantabileis widelyconsider edtobe an anti-realisttext.Indeed ithasbecomea commonplace tor egard Duras as seeking toesche wan‘appetitiv e"model ofreadinginwhichthe narra tive tempts readersonwards intheinteres tsof afinal satiety. 5

Yetea tinganddrink-

ing (andsimultaneously constr ainedandunbridledappetites)pla yk ey rolesin Moderatocantabile , invitingre-thinking ofthenov el. 6 Moderatocantabilerevolvesaroundacrime ofpassion:am anm urdershis hard- drinkinglovero utsideacafe ´beneaththeroom whereA nneDesbares desislist ening to herr ecalcitrantson"s pianolesson.Thisprecipitates hers erieso fe ncountersin thesamecafe ´with Chauvin,oneofA nne"sh usband "sex-workers .Overswiftly- drainedg lassesofvin ordinaire, thetwoob ses sivelyreconstructthecrimeanddev elop a sexually-chargedrelationship.Af terwhattranspirestobe theirpe nultimate meeting,Anne returns homelate toadinnerparty ,drinkscopiousa mountsof Burgundy andr ejectstherichd ishesp reparedb ynamelessw omeninthekitchen and consumedby namelessbourgeois guests.The narrati veshiftsbetw eenthose who consumeandth osewho preparethem eal; theirj udgementofAnne (andof one another);Anne"sthoughts ofandhunge rforC hauvin ,whois outsidethe house; andh isforher. The mealover,s hevomi tscopiously atthefootofher child"sbed, andherh usband looksonins ilentdisapproval.Chauv inan dAnn e drinki ntheca fe ´a finaltimebefor ebr eakingoffthe irrelationsh ip, whereupon

Anne isdescribeda ss ymbolicallydead.

Structurallyand symbolically (and,aswillbe discussedla ter, inm anymor e, more-or-lesskno wingandincidentalw ay s),the culminationofAnne"sinsatiable drinking atthedinner partydr aws attention totheimportanceofappetite ,food and drinkin Moderatocantabile. Despitetheos tensibleabsence ofnarrativ ebear - ings,r edwinepro videsthe fil rougefor Anneand Chauvin" sillicitmeetings. Whilstclock andcalendar timear eabsent, temporal markersare pro videdby successiveglasses ofwine andthe constr aintsof mealtimes. Thegrowinginten- sity ofAnne andChauvin "s sexually-chargedobsessionismark edbythera teof their wineconsu mption.Appetiteis keyto thechar acterizationofAnne(insofar as sheis‘characterized"),andher appetite forwine,in verselymirror edb yher lackof appetite forfoodinthe penultimate chapter, clearly connotesher desire. In whatcouldbe described asa dinnerpartysetpiece ,issues around thecon- sumption offood andof wineengineer ade´nouement(such asther eis):an EATING,DRINKING ,RE-THINKING:MODERATOCANTABI LE3/13

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ominous shiftin Anne"s relationshipwith herhusband,andtheend ofher rela- tionship withChauvin, alongwith that ofher hopeofassuagingher sexual appetite.Meanwhilethe detailsof therituals ofthe cafe

´and dinnerparty ,

includingthe prepar ationofthesalmon(en saucev erte), duck( a`l"orange) andice cream(mocha), are theequivalentofr ealityeffects, pro vidingso megrounds for suspension ofdisbelief inthe absenceof psy chological motivation for,orphysic- al descriptionsof, protagonis ts. So, asw ellasindicating theendur ingpower ofthe bourgeoisieinswiftly modernizingpost-W arFrance,the mealevidencestheremaindersofrealis taes- thetics. Thereisev enan intertextuallink toGus taveFlaubert"s Madame Bovary, 7 in whichchar acterization,symbolismandimplicitcritiqueof bourgeoismores arealso bound upwithrepr esentations ofan excessiveformalmeal(Emmaand Charles"sw eddingfeast)and thefatalappetite ofa bourgeois wife.Ina further nineteenth-centuryec ho,theDesbaresdes" menufollo wstheconv entionsof bourgeoishaute cuisine, epitomizedin thepr escriptionsof AugusteEscoffier, with their rootsinpr e-Rev olutionaryexcessanditscorollaryof hunger. 8

Indeed,

re-thinkingthe nov elintermsoffood anddrink revealssur prisings tructural and symbolicleftov ersofrealism, 9 leftoversthat suggestthat evenina text whereinDur asnodoubtintends thedinner partyto highlightthe anachr onism of bourgeoiseating andnarrativ econ ventions,suchrepresentationsof foodand drinkcontinue tor espond,a tleastpartiall y,tor eaders"appetitesfora minimum of textualcoherence .Itappears,then,that inModeratocantabile , asin ther ealist novel,feedingis ever necessaryfor reading.

Questionsofc lass,gender andcriticalappetite

The worksof Duras" scontemporariesRolandBarthe s,SimonedeBeauv oir,

PierreBourdieu andClaude Le

´vi-Strausse xemplifyjustso meofthe intersecting post-WarFr enchtheoreticalperspectiveswhichseek tomakesense ofcultural constructs,and inv olveorarelegiblethrough thelenses offoodanddrink.

Structuralistanthropologis tLe

´vi-Strausses tablishesfoodasa toolfor readi ng culture,arguingthat differentia tionsbetween therawandthecooked (and betweenvariou smodesof cooking)reflect universa ls tructuringprinciplesfound acrosshumansocieties. 10

Moreobviously productiv eforliterarycriticism,

Barthes"sMythologiesuses foodand drinkas examples ofthe wayideologic aldis- courses areconstructed andcirculated. Thiss tructuralistanalysisidentifies how eatingand drinking patternsconceal whathedescribesassecondary sy stemsof symbolizationthatseem togowithoutsa ying. 11

Barthesargues that thesemake

ideologicalconnota tionsappearnatur al,such astheFrench nationalis tideals of virility andcohesion putativ elyinscribedinthewine of‘Levinet lela it" 12 and the steakof‘Le biftecket lesfrites". 13

By contrast,fromBourdie u"spost-Marxis t

perspective,choicesof foodand drinkar epo werful modesof distinction throughwhich subjectse xpres stheirownclassandgenderinclusion ande xclu- sion. 14 Meanwhile,fo odprepara tionisconsideredbyBeauvoiras afor mof

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domesticensl avementimposeduponwomen-but alsochosen by them- in bad faith. 15 Newr eadingsofclassand genderin Moderatocantabilecan ber evealedby examiningrepr esentationsofeatinganddrinking from theseconvergin gtheor et- ical perspectives.Thisopens upto readi ngswhich certainlye xceedthe ideological connotationsBarthesadjudges togo without saying inF renchatti- tudes towine ,suchasna tionalismand virility, ortheforgiveness of misdemeanours: savoirboirees tunetechniquena tionalequi serta `qualifier leF ranc¸ais,a`prouvera`la fois son pouvoirdeperfor mance, soncontro ˆle etsa sociabilite´. Levin fondeainsi unemor ale collective,a `l"inte´rieur dequoi toutes tr achete´. 16 In Duras"snovel, ratherthanfunctioningideolo gicallytopromoteathirs tfor nationalcohesion andsuperiority ,wine isavector forvalue judgements based on classand gender. Abourgeoiswoma ndrinking inaworkers" barelicitsthe opprobriumof thewoma nrunning thecafe

´, andtha toftheother exclus ively

male,e xclusivelyworking-classpatrons. Later ,Anne"sinsatiable consumption of Burgundyattr actsjudgementatoncefrom thekitchen staffand thegues ts (although thela tterpartakeof thesamewine, albeitwith inthe constr aintsof implicit norms).Contr arytoBarthes"sargument that theconnotationsofwine in Franceconstructa notionofnational cohesion(an argumentwhich omitsto consider femaledrink ers),hereits consumptionunderpins thediffer ences betweenbourgeois andworking class,and between menand women. PresumablyDur asintendsherr epresen tations tobeimplicitlycriticalofthemis- ogynistnotionstha twomen shouldnotdrink,or expr essor respond totheir ownappetit esanddesir es.C ertainly,wineisthepr emiseforjudgementboth betweenand withinclasses andgender sa tthe dinnerparty: Anne Desbaresdesboitde nouveau unv erredevin toutentier lesyeuxmi-clos.Elle en estde ´ja`a`ne pluspouv oirfaireautr ement.Ellede´couvre,a`boire,uneconfir mation de ce quifut jusquela `son de´sir obscuret uneindigne consolation a`cette de´couverte.

D"autresfemmes boivent a

`leur tour,ellesle `ventde meˆme leursbr asnus,de´lectables, irre

´prochables,maisd"e ´pouses.( 106-07)

If throughtheconsu mption(or not)ofwineand food thewomen inthe kitchen judge Anne,andthe menand womenar oundthe tablejudge Anneand one another,all, indoing so,unwittingly entrenc htheir differ entialsocialpositions. Moderatocantabilethereforechimes withBourdieu"stheor yof howthemechan- isms ofdis tinctioncanopera tethr oughfoodchoices. 17

Thusin Bourdieusian

terms,the kitchens taff andtheguestsalike accept andconsolida tethecon- straintsoftheir habitusvia theirdi fferentchoicesinrela tionto drinkingand eating. In otherw ays,too,genderandclassin theno vel are mark edout by relation- ships withfood anddrink andb ythe expr essionandregul ation ofappetite: EATING,DRINKING ,RE-THINKING:MODERATOCANTABI LE5/13

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Habille´de noir,gante´de blanc,un hommele porte[le saumon],tel unenfant der oi,et le pre ´sente a`chacundansle silencedu dıˆner commenc¸ant.(99)

Des femmes,a

`la cuisine,ache `ventde parfaire lasuite,la sueurau front,l"honneura `vif, elles e ´corchentuncanard mortdans sonlinceul d"oranges. (100)

Un homme,face a

`une femme,regarde cetteinconnue.( 100) Le saumonr epassedansunefor meencor eamoindrie .Lesfemmesle de

´voreront

jusqu"au bout.( 103)
Herethe emphatic positionsof‘deshommes", ‘desfemmes", ‘unhomme" and ‘une femme"mark powerr elationsbetweenmenand women.Thisgendered emphasisissupple mented bytheforegroundingofcl ass-di sting uishingrelation- shipswi ththemeal: themaıˆtred"h oˆtelranksmo rehighlytha nthewomenin the kitchen,butt heperso nified salmonseemstobemore highlyvaluedthan he,who meanwhileispor traye dassubservienttotheg ues ts(who,nonetheless, arenot individualized).Atoncebymeto nymyan dbythei rvoi celessimprisonme ntint he kitchen,thefe male domesticstaff arepresentedasvictims ,liketh educk aboutto be consumed:‘Deuxfemm es,dansunmo uvementalterne

´et comple´mentaire,

pre ´parentled euxie`mes ervice.L"autrev ictimeattend"(105).So ifLe´vi-Strauss alignscook ingwithculture ,attheD esbaresdes"dinner party iteme rgesasanos- tensiblycivil izedformofbarbarism. 18

Moreover,herethesepat riarchal bourgeois

modesof consu mptionappeartobeenduri nglypowerfu lande xploit ative,despite thea ppetiteforsocialc hange articulated byBourdieuand Beauvoir(andarguably implicitlybyDur as). In factDuras" srepresentationsof appetite,foodanddrinkhighlightho wmis- ogynypr evailsacross thesocialsphere,appar entlyuntouched by post-war modernizationandthe according ofthe voteto(some) womenin 1944(or by Beauvoir"s1949Le Deuxie`me sexe). Working-classwomenremainfa celess and exploited,whils tbourgeoiswomenar er epresented asunitsofconsumpt ion:

‘Les femmessont auplus suˆ rde leure

´clat.Les hommesles couvrirent debijoux

au proratadeleursbilans.L "und"eux, ceso ir, doutequ"ileuˆ tr aison" (103). Herebourgeois mores arerepr esentedasseekingto reduceAnne"str ansgr ession of alimentaryrituals toa calculation weighing uptherela tivevalueof the women,who, intur n,ar ecompelledto regulate theirappetitesas considered to befit theirposition, andar edescribed intermsof thecor poreal andsymbolic capitalthe yareper ceivedtodeliv ertotheirhusbands:

Leurs e´paules nuesont laluisance etla fermete ´d"une socie´te´fonde´e,dans sesassises ,sur

la certitudede sondr oit,et ellesfurentch oisiesa `la convenancedecelle-ci.La rigueur de leure ´ducatione xigequeleurse xce`s soienttempe ´re´s parle soucimajeur deleur entre- tien. Decelui-ci onleur eninculqua, jadis,la conscience. Ellesse pourle `chent de mayonnaise,verte, commeilsedoit,s"yr etrouv ent,y trouv entleur compte. Deshommes les regardentetse rappellent qu"ellesfont leurbonheur.( 103)
Now,inLe Deuxie`me sexe, Beauvoirwouldsee suchmisog yny not simplyasa matterof oppres sion,butalsoasoneof individualch oice, suchtha tthe women

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in theki tchenandthedi ningr oomar eallimprisoned, notonlyby patriarchal and bourgeoisbadfaith, butalso by theiro wnmauvaisefoi . HereDuras" srepre- sentationpar allelswhatBeauv oirdescribesasc hoosingtopla ya role .The women attendingthedinner partyar epla yingthe roleofbeing awife,whils t the womenin thekitchen are playing theroleof beingaservant.In Beauvoir" s terms,then, thebourgeois womenand thekitchen sta ffalik ear ef leeingtheir existentialresponsibility bychoosingto bedomesticprisoners. Beauvoiralso portrayswomenascons trained by shoppingandcooking,butdoes notoffera viable alternativeforherfemaler eaders toch oose. Meanwhile,inModeratocanta- bile, Anne"slifema ybe represented as‘fr ee"ofsuchdomesticdrudgery, andshe mayappear toseek tobr eakout ofher genderedandclass constr aints,y et Duras"sprotagonis tnonethelesschoosestoa ttendthedinnerparty and,ultim- ately,toconfor mto bourgeoisconventions by renouncing herdrinkingsprees, and hencethe possibility ofconsummatingher rela tionshipwithChauvin. Thus, beneaththerichsauces andrituals, foodand winebring withthem whatD urasnodoubtintends asimplicit critiquesofbourgeoiscon ventio nsof exploitation,consumption andnarration. How ever,whilstins tancesofeating and drinkingin Moderatocantabile mayseek toconfr ontunequal genderandclass powerrela tions,Duras"srepr esentationsdonoteffectiv elychallengetheseideo- logical constructs.Instead, becausesheforeg rounds bourgeoiscon ventions- albeit negatively-theirimportance ispar adoxicallyshor edup.So foodand drink remainvehicles formisogynist andbourgeois ideologyinthenov el,ar gu- ably perpetuatingthevery valuesDur asappearstoseek tobring intoquestion. The samem ightbesaidof theuses offood anddrink inthe afor e-mentioned critical theoriesof Barthes, BeauvoirandBourdieu, whicharecaught, like Anne"swould-be transg ressivebehaviour,inthedoublebind ofhighlightingthe inequities theyma yseektochallenge .

Signification,incorporat ion,desireandtrauma

Such questionsofco-implic ation alsoresonatewith posts tructuralistandpsycho- analytical concerns.Indeed,pos tstructur alistandpost-Freudianapproac hesalso recurrently(ifless ov ertly)figur eappetite(anditsleftov ers),offeringy etm ore critical potential.Ja cquesDerrida"snotionof restance- thatwhichcannot be subsumed intoa structur e-evokesthe ideaof theleftover(figur ativ eand ali- mentary) intrinsica tonceinlangua geand allfor msofcultur alpr oduction. Intersecting withr emainders,Derrida"sfigur eofthetr aceopensup toconti n- gent readingsofhaunting remainders that cannotbedigested. 19

Nourishment is

fundamental tothe post-F reudianpsychoanalyticaltheories ofJacquesLacan. ForLa can,desireorigina tesinthefulfilment oftheneed for themother" sm ilk, and individuationoccursas ar esultof sever ancefromthe breas t,onentryinto the Symbolic,intolanguage: thebeginning ofla ck,a hungerfor onenesstha t can neverbefulfilled. 20

Language cannotbe separa tedfromappetite, andrep-

resentationalpra cticeoperateslike aninextricableweav eoftra cesalso bound EATING,DRINKING ,RE-THINKING:MODERATOCANTABI LE7/13

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up withnourishment (andthus lack). Andjus taslack cannotbe resolved by returningtothe perceiv edunion withthemother,soequilibrium after trauma can neverbea chiev ed.InLacan"sanalysis, ther eturnoftherepressedhas in- escapablelefto vers.WhereasFr eudfiguresscr eenmemoryasdisplacing a traumawhich may nonethelessbedisc hargedthroughthe talkingcur e,quotesdbs_dbs33.pdfusesText_39

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