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Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2016 Disciplined - Deloitte

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L'Occitane, Melvita, Erborian and Au Brésil branded ended 31 March 2015 the Group's Advent Calendar during the recent Christmas holiday sales season

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//a dnuômY Wlt , uE s consumers look for more expertise and individualism in the product landscapeC brands across all categories are premiumizing their o M erC reports //aÕs yete dornU mhereÕs a fresh breeze blowing over the beauty landscapeU WtÕs a new sense of luxuryC summed up by a new buzzword that many have trouble pronouncing but few marketers can seem to avoidÉ yremiumizationU x v-Wlw vl ôyU uwuWlU Wt is a ubiquitous term that has been applied to trading up in every category from valueApriced personal and hair care to fragrances priced in the hundreds of dollarsU auring a recent tn/ forumC mamara .ogersC executive vice president of ôUZU personal care for ônileverC cited Zuave wold as an exampleC which brings salon beneÞts into the widely popularC moderately priced Zuave brandU /hat has gained the most attention is the advent of pricey designer and artisanal scentsC which have grown into a new class of luxury as the market seemed to edge away from commercialC bigAbox fragrances as too marketingAdriven with masstige proA motional tactics that smacked of commoditizationC although the designer categor y remains strongU Zome discriminating consumers opted for the higher quality of a more authentic breed of productU Ò/e are on the cusp of something that can be very bigC Ó says licolas xirzayantzC group president of fragrances at WnternaA tional elavors O eragrancesC adding that some fragrance brands have succeeded in ÒredeÞning luxuryUÓ Ò/e have seen a space where share of mindC heart and pocket for fragrances have really increasedCÓ adds aionisio eerencC vice president of global Þne fragranceU .emarking that fragrance was once seen as a giftable item that people would spend KLC ,LC ÔLL forC he saysC Òlow there are people willing to pay BLLC YLLC VLLU liche is no longer nicheU W think perhaps it is a new realityUÓ u spotlight has been cast onto these brands when nstŽe zauder swooped up three notable namesÑerŽdŽric xalleC ze zabo and dy gilianÑin a dramatic move to upgrade its fraA grance portfolioU mhese acquisitions were made on the top of zauderÕs building the mom eord and co xalone brands to relative giants with retail sales volumes in excess of VLL million eachC according to industry sourcesU Òull the growth is coming out of the upper tier of the marA ketplaceCÓ says cohn aemseyC executive group president of the nstŽe zauder tosU WncU ÒWtÕs a phenomenon that is turning out to be globalUÓ he then shed some light on zauderÕs behindAtheAscenes stratA egyU ÒtlearlyC we believe in it because we wouldnÕt have made the acquisitions that weÕve madeU vur moves also shape the marketUÓ aemsey then sketched a deep and broad potentialU Ò/e see this as transformative to the fragrance business as makeup artists were to the makeup business BL years agoCÓ he saysC recalling the linetiesC when Wndie makeup artistry brandsÑlike xutC dobbi drownC eranois larsC Zmashbox and xake ôp eor nverÑ were struggling for a foothold before gradually redeÞning and dominating the ôUZU marketU eledgling as they may beC the upstarts have the momentumU Zales increases for fragrance juices priced higher than ÔBL a bottle chalked up a whopping ,V percent in unitsC while the entire ôUZU prestige market in juices gained B percentC according to lyaU Wn BLÔYC juices higher than ÔBL represented ÔÔ percent of the prestige fragrance marketU low that categoryÕs market share is ÔV percentC when measured in dollarsU mhe premium category doubled in dollars from Ô,B million to Y'Ô millionU yerfumers and fragrance inn ovators bega n o M ering more specialness meant to appeal to an increasingly sophisticated paletteC says garen wrantC vice president and global industry analyst at lya wroupU ull of a suddenC the market became dotA ted with what wrant calls Òfragrances that make a statementU mhey were all over in nuropeU mheyÕve been brought over hereCÓ she saysC adding itÕs happened as major brands began backing away from a fragrance market that has been weakening sincequotesdbs_dbs46.pdfusesText_46