[PDF] [PDF] The Perfume of Cyprus

[PDF] Wonderful World Of Collecting Perfume Bottles - UNEP

Lalique) is represented in a stunning color photos, accompanies by recent auction ancient perfume hold the power to unlock the ability to remember past lives 

[PDF] History of the Perfume Industry in Greco-Roman Egypt - ARC Journals

Egypt was famous for its perfume throughout the ancient civilizations Greco- Roman perfumes from images found in tombs and from recipes (Redford, 2001) 

[PDF] Perfumery from Myth to Antiquity1 - International Journal of Medicine

Keywords: cosmetics, perfumes, aromatic plants, ancient world 1 decorative images on perfume vases referred to the exotic origin of their contents

[PDF] History Of Perfume

of perfume slideshare, 60 best history of perfume images perfume bottles, history of ancient egyptians, the word perfume is used today to describe scented

[PDF] Perfumery Theme Park Museum

traceable in a medieval "Kypros", very similar to a more ancient perfume of the classical period images and will be identified in these limits The reconstruction 

[PDF] The Perfume of Cyprus

image according to personal choices gives you a kind of power-safety in the pleasure of in the North-Eastern sector of Pyrgos' perfumery are a more ancient

[PDF] The Garden of Perfumes - Ville de Genève

The perfume industry began in France some 300 years ago We can't be sure as to when exactly perfumes were first used, but it's fair to say that it's an ancient Images: 1 A perfumer at work in the laboratory 2 Filtering distilled perfumes 

[PDF] THE ESSENCE AND USE OF PERFUME IN ANCIENT EGYPT by

The ancient Egyptians were famous for their exotic and luxury perfumes in the ancient world, Figure 8 18: A close up picture of a section of the kyphi recipe

[PDF] ancient perfume making

[PDF] ancient perfume oils

[PDF] andreas gursky facts

[PDF] andreas gursky family

[PDF] andreas gursky most famous works

[PDF] android 10 hardware requirements

[PDF] android 10 ram requirements

[PDF] android 11 requirements

[PDF] android 8 hardware requirements

[PDF] android 9 hardware requirements

[PDF] android 9 minimum system requirements

[PDF] android aosp code structure

[PDF] android app development image processing

[PDF] android app development project planning

[PDF] android app development proposal sample doc

The Perfume of Cyprus

from Pyrgos to François Coty the route of a millenary charm

MARIA ROSARIA BELGIORNO

Third Revised Edition

ii

Maria Antonietta Rizzo: Foreword

Amber Roy: short review and

Proofreading of the English text

Antonio De Strobel:

Computer processing of all illustrations;

©photographs and design elaboration:

Figure n° 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 19, 26,

31, 35, 42, 56, 57, 62, 63, 65, 67, 68, 70, 77,

81, 88, 89, 92, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 104, 109,

110, 111, 112, 113, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120,

121, 122, 123, 124, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130,

131, 132, 133, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140,

142, 143, 144, 145, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151,

153, 156, 159, 163, 164, 166, 168, 169, 170,

173, 177, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 186, 190,

191, 197, 198, 200, 201, 202, 210, 212, 215,

216, 221, 222, 224, 225, 227, 231, 232, 233,

234, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242,

243, 244, 245, 246, 247, 251, 252, 259;

pages: 8, 21, 57, 69, 87, 105, 139, 191, 233,

Hard cover: photo and elaboration.

Simone Iacomini: virtual reconstruction

Figure 108, maps figure 115 and 230.

Clara Vasitzek: drawings figure: 141, 146, 226.

Sponsored by:

Associazione Culturale "Armonia"

Via Canino 10, Roma, Italy.

No part of this book can be reproduced

without previous consent from the publisher.

Copyright © 2017 Maria Rosaria Belgiorno

All rights reserved.

ISBN: 978-9963-2448-2-9

Edited by Antonio De Strobel

October 2017, Nicosia, Cyprus

To

Lavinia,

Nausicaa,

Arianna.

INDEX

Foreword 1

Introduction 7

1

Cyprus 21

2

The oldest texts up to 1000 A.D. 57

3

Essence of Aphrodite 69

4

Perfume is a Feline God 87

5 Production of perfumes in antiquity 105

6 Instruments of an antique perfume laboratory 139

7 Distillation 191

8 Notes on the use of wine in production of perfumes and pharmaceuticals tinctures 217

9 Opium 233

10 Dressing perfume as a status symbol.

The Art of Scent 247

11 Charm and Cosmetics 273

12 Kypros-Chypre, Cipria 313

REFERENCES 340

273

Charm and Cosmetics

"ars est celare artem"

Ovidio Ars Amatoria (III 210)

Historical background.

In Cyprus, materials from the necropolis and settlements of the third millennium BC show signs of a deep cultural transformation, which roughly coincides with the end of the Chalcolithic period and the beginning of the Bronze Age. An old thesis justifies this transformation with the advent in Cyprus of new cultures from overseas, a recurring event for the eastern Mediterranean civilizations. It remains to consider what was responsible for this XI 274
transformation, and to try to rebuild the historic process that made this possible, looking at the changing patterns of life and settlements. Probably behind the transformation, there was cooperation of different factors as a favourable climate, which facilitated the founding of a new agriculture and breeding of animals. A period in which the island enjoyed abundant rains that created extensive fertile land, and facilitated creation of human communities 151.
The scenario has changed over time in the mid-third millennium BC, when people abandoned the Neolithic settlements to spread along the banks of major rivers, whose running changed from seasonal to semi-perennial and settlements began gradually to enlarge. With the new pattern of settlements, social life changed as well. There was no need to control the territory, from the top of the hills, but to occupy fertile lands, especially the small and central valley more suitable for agriculture and pasture because a number of fully implemented water streams came down from the mountains. Together the settlements, size and shape of houses completely changed, and relations between the regions and tribes favoured creation of new inland roads to exchange agricultural products and manufactured goods. The building system also changed. Configuration of houses was transformed from rounded to square. Basements of stones remained, but the rampart above the meter was primarily made with mud bricks covered with plaster. Even the pottery much changed, after the gradual emergence of new technologies based on pyro technology and balance of temperature. The discovery of new natural resources moved complex social mechanisms that radically transformed the pattern of aggregation under the political and religious profile. Commitment of people in the processing of metals (extraction, production and trade) possibly created a new social structure, involved not only in the production and trade of agricultural goods, but also in the production and trade of metal artefacts, opening the market of luxuries and status symbols. The abundant agricultural production supported new trade for basic needs and provided opportunity for an exchange of copper with food and convenience goods.

151 A. Lentini 2015. The Biodiversity of Cyprus Island, in Journal of

Environmental Science and Engineering, vol. 4, (3), 125-131. 275
Figure 224: Duck shaped askos, Tomb 47 Pyrgos, Limassol Museum In addition to the internal market, trade overseas opened new opportunities, improving the demand of luxury goods, clothes and precious perfumes made in Cyprus. In terms of reconstruction of the new Bronze Age Cypriot economy, the industrial site of Pyrgos/Mavroraki offers interesting evidence, especially on the role of women, which was of extreme importance to improve the use and production of ephemeral goods. Their role appears as a genuine transition from a first intra moenia domestic employment in a well-organized industrial system of possible geopolitical importance and social implications. The material found in the tombs and on the site, suggests that the "ladies" not only were committed to spinning, weaving and producing perfumes, but also in metallurgy, activity usually considered an exclusive male job. Spies for these hypotheses are the spindle whorls left everywhere, abandoned next the furnaces for copper and on the benches, nearby stone tools to hammer and refined bronzes. Most of the small objects found, including the worked shells, stone and metal, jewels, two weaving knives and a weaving hook refer to female presence. 276
Even the Cypriot pottery, which differs radically from the schemes of other contemporary Mediterranean cultures, highlights aspects of an Early Bronze Age industrial revolution. It is the time when the appearance becomes important and the use of geometric patterns and zoomorphic symbols on pottery reflects the research of aesthetics unknown before.

The plastic and incised

virtuosity of decorations are in fact a characteristic of the Early

Bronze Age (Figs. 224, 225).

Figure 225: Red Polished ware jug, The Getty Villa Museum Los Angeles 277
With the rise of extensive settlements and within the contexts of a developing complexity in Cyprus and surrounding cultures, the manufacture of goods increased dramatically. This was by far the most important period connected to the different production of prestige merchandise, as the Bronze Age is marked to significant exchanges among emerging elites. In archaeological material collected in tombs and settlements of Early-Middle Bronze age, we find new categories of artefacts that attest the increase of luxuries, including metal objects, jewels of stone, shells and organic cosmetics. All these products converge in a new need for transforming personal appearance for taking on a new identity. The new fashion involved the anthropomorphic representations, which until the end of the Chalcolithic period were naked. As symbols of the superfluous, clothes, jewellery and hairstyle took the role of representing prosperity. Elements so important to replace symbols of fertility on idols. The human figure became a kind of propaganda of well-being, achieved through technological refinement that pioneered the trade in luxury goods. Wearing precious clothes acquired a special significance affecting the social status of people. Therefore, the awareness of the potential wealth of textiles became an important business involving the economy of the entire island. The precious clothes and jewels represented on clay figurines (plank shaped idols) offer an idea of the revolution that changed the Cypriot culture completely (Fig.226).

Meaning of word cosmetics

The use of cosmetics is the result of a critical path towards yourself, which leads to change of the appearance through artifices, ornaments and magic-pharmaceutical remedies. Transformation of your own image according to personal choices gives you a kind of power-safety in the pleasure of being able to deceive or impress people who look at you. It is not by chance that the word "cosmetic" refers to the Greek word for beauty, but also conveys ideas of totality and absolute order. Cosmetology, like writing, was a sophisticated technology for organising and managing social interaction, strategically linked to development of early urban civilisation. In ancient times, the cosmetic art precariously swayed between the look-up for the physical well-being and outer beauty: between the security to be and to appear. 278
Figure 226: Cypriot idol, "Red Polished Ware" (2000 BC). Pierides Museum

Larnaca,

Cyprus

279
Whereas, the role of makeups and ornaments was that to externalize possession of resources, to beautify the appearance and to communicate a visual message on the identity and dignity of the person. The search for an aesthetic expression, through both direct outdoor ornaments and decorations, and through jewellery and flashy clothes, is recognized in the incised and painted decoration of the Early-Middle Bronze Age pottery (Fig.227). Tangible and intangible values merge and alternate the cosmetic realm. Tangible materials as the ownership of precious objects and the knowledge of technology point of production and marketing. Figure 227: Amphora, Red Pol. IV, Pyrgos Inv. N°363, Limassol Museum The intangible values relate to the semantic aspect, beauty, magic, and holistic healing. Both classes of values converge in the same effort of being better than others are

152. Probably it is not correct to

152 The Latin fascinum, charm, malefic spell is related to fascia, bandage and to

fascis, bundle; ligare (to tie), and ligature, act of trying also a mean to charm 280
believe that in prehistory, the mere appearance became an end in itself. The amount of different symbolic patterns suggests that a number of them were linked with magic beliefs and religion. Most of what we call ornaments were stylistic phenomena interpreting human and nature, positive and negative events. The use of natural materials with which it was possible to identify a life or a previous history was essential.

Green and copper

The colour of the stones chosen to create amulets was crucial. A familiar example is that of the green stones, regarded worldwide as protectors of life and regeneration. The greatest example is the wide use of Jade in the East and in India, where it is considered the seed of god Shiva, and a generator of life. While in Cyprus, the green pebbles of picrolite, collected on the banks of the streams descending from the Troodos massif, were employed for making apotropaic amulets (Fig.228) since the pre-Neolithic period. At that time, there was no knowledge of the mineral wealth of the island, nor of the female deity that several millennia later would become the goddess of copper. Figure 228: Cruciform figurine of blue-green picrolite from Yialia (Paphos) ca. 3000 BC Cyprus Museum, Nicosia However, we cannot exclude that there was an empirical knowledge and a special respect for the green healing waters of Cyprus and charm. To bind by a magic charm, by tying a knot. All the etymology confirms the idea that the act of binding is essentially magical. 281
containing copper sulphate. This perhaps justifies the choice of using a green stone as an amulet, for a double magical and healing effect. In Egypt, malachite and turquoise were extensively used not only to create amulets, but also to compose curative cosmetics, commonly used for green eye shadow to obtain the "cat eye" look. They also used black ointment that derives from galena and cerussite, like Kohl, of which the protective function against the sun's rays, insects and various bacterial diseases of the eyes is well known

153. Hydrated copper sulphate (CuSO4·5 (H2O), also known

as blue vitriol, was one of the best recognised compounds attested by a Sumerian list that in Cyprus occurs as chalcanthite

154 (Crosland

1962, 67). Along with Dioscurides, Pliny mentions chalcanthite-

vitriol (Book XXXIV, section XXXII 3) and its use in medicine, particularly in the eyes. Referring mainly to the substance produced from copper ore deposits in Cyprus, both authors describe the chalcanthite-vitriol forming as white dripstones in caves and along the sides of pits dug into mine tunnels. In Egypt, the Smith papyrus (2400 BC) mentions the use of copper as a sterilization agent for drinking water and wounds. Meanwhile the Eber papyrus (1500 BC) recommends the use of copper potions for headaches, burns and itching and that of copper oxide and copper sulphate powder with a mixture of honey and red copper on open wounds.

Cosmetics, medicines, and ornaments

When we use the word cosmetic, we do not refer only to "makeup" used to improve appearance of a person, but also to substances and ornaments that help a person seem not only beautiful, but also healthy and younger 155.
The use of cosmetics represents a status symbol to underline the economic position and/or the belonging to a social class or a leading

153 Papyrus Eber 346, 355, 367, 368, 383, 393, 407, 416, 423; J.F. Nunn 1996.

Ancient Egyptian Medicine, London, 198-199; P. Walter, P. Martinetto, G. Tsoucaris, R. Bréniaux, M.A. Lefebvre, G. Richard, J. Talabot & E. Dooryhee

1999. Making makeup in Ancient Egypt, Nature, vol. 397; 483-484.

154 M.P. Crosland 1962. Historical Studies in the Language of Chemistry,

Heinemann, London, 67.

155 P. Walter 1995. La peinture des femmes préhistoriques, in La Dame de

Brassempouy, (Études et Recherches Archéologiques de l'Université de Liège),

74, 259.

282
tribe. For the same reason, we can consider the wearing of personal adornments and the use of tattoos and makeups. Of course, the canons of the time were not so different from today. Many cosmetic remedies were really pharmaceutical preparations to improve and rejuvenate the appearance. Examples are the wide range of preparations against baldness, wrinkles and cellulite described in the Egyptian papyri. Moreover, the division between cosmetics and medicines dates back to the recent past with the birth of pharmaceutical companies, many of which also produce cosmetics. The current distinction considers make up something that generates temporary aesthetic effects, cosmetics something that produces prolonged or permanent effects and medicines that cure disease. As regards the ornaments, we have to consider that their use went far beyond the scope of beautifying the person, especially when she/he was not particularly attractive. Often "jewels" had an apotropaic and "curative" purpose (Fig.229). Amulets and pendants were positioned near the most vital parts of the body and to protect the overtures through which was feared the malefic or disease could enter. Maximum attention was given to protection of the head, forehead, ears, nose and neck. The belt around the waist was often enriched with amulets as well as bracelets around the wrists and ankles. Figure 229: Tibetan lady wearing amulets, 1890 ca. 283

Pyrgos evidence

Since the first years of excavation at Pyrgos, the discovery of objects, connected with the production and use of ornaments and "cosmetics", suggested that body care was a factor of primary importance for people. Extension of excavations in the room occupied by the olive press, which includes the workshop for fragrances (chapter 6), outlined the industrial character of the site. The building was in the middle of a sort of industrial-area positioned in the hearth of the settlement. Figure 230: Map of distribution of the main activities It included workshops to produce bronzes, cosmetics, jewels of shells and picrolite, and textiles (Fig.230). The geology and the Paleo-botanical studies show that natural resources facilitated industrial production. In fact, the village is located above a bank of ophiolite pillow-lava composed of extrusive and effusive rocks, rich 284
of copper minerals, and basalt rocks156. A suitable situation for a metallurgical site that needed a large supply of stone tools. Thequotesdbs_dbs9.pdfusesText_15