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UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON

FACULTY OF HUMANITIES

Department of History

The Métier of the Fashion Merchant (Marchande de Modes): Luxury and the Changing Parisian Clothing System, 1795 to 1855.

Volume 1 of 2

by

Fiona Lesley Ffoulkes

Thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy

June 2017

UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON

ABSTRACT

FACULTY OF HUMANITIES

History

Doctor of Philosophy

THE MÉTIER OF THE FASHION MERCHANT (MARCHANDE DE MODES): LUXURY AND THE CHANGING PARISIAN CLOTHING SYSTEM, 1795 to 1855. by

Fiona Lesley Ffoulkes

Fashion merchants were acknowledged as the highest status trade and dynamic the eighteenth century but their position in the nineteenth century has not previously been considered. This thesis examines how the trade evolved in Paris between 1795 and 1855 considering factors such as gender, finance and location in the context of political, economic and social change. The findings challenge the idea that significant change only occurred before 1789 or after 1860. Fashion merchants used novelty, luxury and taste to produce fashionable merchandise, particularly headgear, from a range of authentic and substitute materials that stimulated consumer demand across different social levels. Engaging with debates about gender and the public sphere, the investigation demonstrates that, although there were successful male merchants, women continued to dominate the sector. Married women did not retreat from business, instead their husbands could be helpmeets and the métier was often the focus of the family economy. Continuity was found in the use of credit in trade, the high status of the fashion merchant, the importance of reputation and the value of location and premises. Change was shown in production, sales and promotional strategies including advertising and the increasing importance of headwear to French industry was acknowledged by its inclusion in the industry exhibitions of 1851 and 1855. i List of Contents Volume 1 Page

List of Contentsi

A

Acknoxiii

Ab

Introduction.. 1

Chapter 1. France, 1789 to 1855: Government, Economy and Luxury Clothing Production33

France: Society, 34

Regulating Commerc 43

Marchandes de Modes: Luxury Clothing in Eighteenth Century P56

Chapter 2. Fashion Merchants: Pathways and

Business Operation 71

Pathways: Apprentices to Partner 75

Business Operation: Finance and Credit01

Business Operation: Merchandise and Clients 118

Chapter 3. Fashion Merchants and Location: The Changing

Dynamics of Urban Space in Paris, 1795 to 1855

Infrastructure: Heritage and New Builds

A Good Location?..............................................................................165

Signalling, Branding and Presenting Premises

Chapter 4. Fashioning Promotion: Opportunities

for Display and Persuasion Displaying Luxury: Imperial and Royal Trousseaux 207 Displaying Industry: Fashion Merchants and Clothing Communicating Fashion: Print Promotion and Advertising ii

Conclusion

Glossary281

Bibliography

Volume 2 Page

Appendices

Fi375 iii List of Tables Volume 1 Page Table 1. Periods of Economic Difficulty and Growth,

1770s-....... 34

Table 2. Training and Experience Amongst Bankrupt Fashion

Merchants, 1789-....... 81

Table 3. The Price of Purchasing a Business, 1843-106

Table 4. Merchandise and Clients,1789-1856121

Table 5. Materials for Merchandise, 1789-1856122

Table 6. Locations for Fashion .166

Table 7. Fashion Merchants in Rue St Honoré, 1804-1855....170 Table 8. Fashion Merchants in the Palais Royal, 1804-1855 Table 9. Fashion Merchants in Passages and Galleries,

1804-55171

Table 10. Fashion Merchants in the Boulevards, 1804-55.172 Table 11. Fashion Merchants in the Bd des Italiens, 1804-55173 Table 12. Fashion Merchants in the Rue de Richelieu and

Rue de la Chausée -.173

Table 13. Fashion Merchants in Place Vendôme and

Rue de la Paix, 1804-55.174

Table 14. Fashion Merch-1855.175

Table 15. Inhabitants of 14 Place Vendôme in 1855183

Table 16. Refurbishments for Mlle Richelandet,

3 bis Rue Lafitte192

Table 17. The Marriage Corbeille in Almanach des Modes, 1814

Table 18. Suppliers for Marie Lo

Corbeille, 1810.

iv Table 19. Main Sections for Products in Great Exhibition 1851 Table 20. Description Required for Exhibits to Enable

Selection, 1851

Table 21. Sub-classes for Clothing Classification,

London 1851

Table 22. Clothing for Women in the 1855 Paris

International Exhibi

Table 23. Medals for Modes et Coiffures, 1855

Table 24. Cost of Advertising in Parisian Newspaper i v List of Appendices Volume 2 Page Appendix 1. Fashion Merchants: Usable Bankruptcy Cases,

1789 to 1856

Appendix 2. ,

. 327

Appendix 3. The LeRoy Family Dynasty

Appendix 4. The Corot Family Dynasty333

Appendix 5. Acquiring and Financing the Business in

35 Bankruptcy Cases

Appendix 6. Fashion Merchants: 67 Examples of Assets and

Debts in Bankruptcy Cases337

5. 341

Appendix 8. Main Items of Merchandise in

54 Bankruptcy Cases.

Appendix 9. Métiers by Arrondissement 1847/8. 349

Appendix 10. Fashion Merchants supplying Court

Trousseaux, 1807 to 1853 351

Appendix 11. Location: Passages, Galleries and

Fashion Merchants

Appendix 12. Location: Boulevards and Fashion Merchants,

1804 to 185555

Italiens, 1854357

Appendix 14.

Luxembourg, 1855359

Appendix 15. Mme Pilon 361

Appendix 16. Suppliers of the Corbeille de Mariage of duchesse de Berry, 1816

Appendix 17. Industry Exhibitions, 1798 to 1855

vi Appendix 18. 30 Classes in the 1851 Great Exhibition, London 367 Appendix 19. Clothing Category at International Industry

Exhibition in Paris, 185 369

Appendix 20. Medals for Straw Hat Manufacturers at the Paris

International Industry Exhibition, 1855 371

Appendix 21. Clothing and Headgear in the 1823 National

Exhibition Paris 373

Appendix 22. Figures 1- 47

Figure 1. Marchande de Modes, Boutique, Coiffure on Cardboard Head, Pattern Pieces, A. F. Garsault, Mde de Modes, (Paris, 1769) Figure 2. Robe à la Française with decoration as applied by the marchande de modes, New York, Metropolitan

Museum, Cos

Figure 3. Trade Card of Mme Leclere, Magasin de Modes and

Bill Head of Mme Beaulard, Marchande de Modes de

la Reine, 1771. Paris, Archives de Paris (AP) D43Z/1. 379 Figure 4. Trade Card of Mme Lenormand, c. 1820, New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Department of Drawings and Prints Figure 5. Fashion Plate, A Woman and Two Children, Journal des Demoiselles,

Figure 6. ister of King Louis-Philippe,

c. 1835, France, Château de Versailles, RMN.

An Unknown Woman in a Bonnet,

c. 1850, photographed by Willard, Paris,

Straw Bonnet, c. 1830, New

York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Decorative

Bonnet Trimming c.1850, USA, Chicago Arts Ins

Figure 7. Taffeta Mantles, 1840 to 1845, Paris, Musée Galliera, Au Paradis des Dames, p. 91. Basquine Bodice,1855,

New York, The Met. Museum. An Embroidered

Velvet Mantle, 1848 to 1853, The Met. Museum387

Figure 8. Paris Maps and City Boundaries, 1215 to 1846389 vii

Figure 9. Maps of Paris, 1789 and 1826.. 391

Figure 10. Shopping in the Galerie du Palais c.1638 by Abraham Bosse and the Palais Royal by Debucourt, 1797. 393 Figure 11. (The Crossing), 1805 by Louis Léopold Boilly, Paris, Musée du Louvre and Les Marchandes de Modes,

1784, Paris, Musées des Arts Décoratifs 395

Figure 12. The 12 Arrondissements before 1860 and the

20 Arrondissements after 1860. 397

Figure 13. Map of Paris Shows Boulevards to the East of the

Church of the Madeleine,1855, Stanford

Figure 14. Palais Royal Gardens in 1792 by Debucourt and in 1846. Paris, RMN Grand Palais Figure 15. Matinée in the Jardin des Tuileries by John J.

Chalon, 1817 to 21 and Boulevard des Italiens by

W. Parrot après J.M.W. Turner, 1832. 403

Figure 16. Pont Royal connecting the Left and Right Banks with the Tuileries Palace. 405 Figure 17. Trade Card belonging to Mme Allipa, c. 1800, . 407

Figure 18. The Country H, and

Château Cadet de Vaux, Franconville, which

belonged to LeRoy. 409 Figure 19A. Map, 1820, Showing Fashion Merchants

Supplying Royal Trousseaux, 1807 to 1816. 411

Figure 19B. Map, 1855, Showing Fashion Merchants

Supplying Royal Trousseaux412

Figure 19C. Map, 1855, Showing Fashion Merchants

Supplying Royal Trousseaux, 1840s and 1850s413

Figure 20. Passages Saumon, Entrance and Shops, and

Galerie Colbert 415

Figure 21. Map showing the Boulevards between Church of the

Madeleine and Rue St Denis 417

viii Figure 22. A House and Carriages on the Boulevard des

Italiens, 1843, photographed by Fox Talbot

Figure 23. Rue de la Banque from the Bourse. Scène et Moeurs veille, anon., Paris,

Musée Carnavalet

Figure 24. . 423

Figure 25. Rue de Rivoli, Place des Pyramides, engraved by Martens. Possible locations for no. 18, Mme Pilon425 Figure 26. Rue Castiglione on the Corner of Rue de Rivoli, looking towards Place Vendome and Rue de la Paix by Guiseppe Canella, 1829. Map of Place Vendôme,

Turgot 1739

Figure 27. Plan of Place Vendôme showing Fashion Merchants in 1855 Figure 28A. Paris Street Signs from 1804, 1840 and c.1850.. 431 Figure 28B. The Persian, stood on the corner of Rue de Richelieu and the Bourse, c.1815. Detail of Passage des

Panoramas showing shop signs, c. 1800, Musée

Carnavalet, Paris. 432

Figure 29. Trade Card of Beaulard. Façade of the Jeweller Nitot, with the Imperial Emblem of Napoleon I433 Figure 30A. Shopfront at 3 Quai de Bourbon, Île St Louis, 1775-77, photographed by Atget

Oak Façade of same Shop, New York, The

Metropolitan Museum of Art435

Figure 30B. , Musée

Carnavalet and photographed c 1900 at 14 Rue

de Grammont by Eugène Atget436

Figure 30C. Façades of 26 Rue de Richelieu

Boutique in 1807 and 27 Rue de Richelieu, 1861.

, BnF437

Figure 31.

Boutique, Galerie de Bois Palais Royal, c.1826.. 439 Figure 32. Les Marchandes de Modes, Encyclopédie, 1769 by

Diderot and La Modiste, 1840 in Les Français

Peinté par Eux Mêmes, Paris. 441

ix Figure 33. Salon of 14 Place Vendôme, first floor, the premises of Mme Barenne, 1841 to 1858. Cover photograph,

Béatrice de Andia, La Place Vendôme (Action

Artistique de la Vil

Figure 34. Interior Design for the Dining Room of Hôtel Boutin by Nicolas Pinceau, Emile Biais, Les Pinceau (Paris,

1892), p, 158

Figure 35A. Life-size Mannequin, French or Italian, 1765, Paris,

Pelham Galleries. Mannequin inside a Mde de

, Paris, Musée les Arts

Décoratifs. 447

Figure 35B. Life-Size Mannequin by Paul Huot, c 1816, Cassel

Museumslandschaft. Mannequin dressed as a

fashionable woman in by T.B.

Bitter, Paris, Musée Carnavalet448

Figure 35C. Italian Mannequin early 19th Century, Italy,

Accademia Carrara. Mannequin Showing Chantilly

Lace, Exposition des

Musée Galliera, Au Paradis des Dames (Paris

Musées, 1993), p. 70.. 449

Figure 36. Marie Caroline being Officially Welcomed at Marseille on 30 May 1816, by Jazet after Martinet. Marie Louise being Welcomed at the Palace of Compiegne, on 28quotesdbs_dbs9.pdfusesText_15

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