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HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 1

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM

THAT FORMS ATOP HEATED SOYMILK

(1587-2012):

EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED

BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK

Also known in Chinese as doufu-pi ("bean curd skin"), doufu i ("bean curd robes / lingerie"), and fuzhu ("dried bean curd sticks")

Compiled

by

William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi

2012

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 2

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

Copyright (c) 2012 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi

All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic,

or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews,

without written permission from the publisher.

Published by: Soyinfo Center

P.O. Box 234

Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA

Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091

www.soyinfocenter.com info@soyinfocenter.com

ISBN 9781928914501 (Yuba without hyphens)

ISBN 978-1-928914-50-1 (Yuba with hyphens)

Printed 1 Nov. 2012

Price: Available on the Web free of charge

Search engine keywords:

History of beancurd skin

History of bean curd skin

History of bean-curd skin

History of soymilk skin

History of bean curd sheets

History of tofu skin

History of the Þ lm that forms atop soymilk when heated

History of protein-lipid Þ lm

History of doufu pi

History of toufu p'i

History of beancurd clothes

History of bean curd robes

History of bean-curd lingerie

History of doufu i

History of toufu yi

History of dried yuba sticks or rolls

History of dry yuba sticks or rolls

History of bean curd sticks

History of dried bean curd rolls

History of dried bean milk cream

History of fuzhu

History of fu chuAbout the Chinese and Japanese characters on the title page:

Left side: Chinese characters

Top: Doufu pi = Bean curd skin

Middle: Doufu i = Bean curd robes / lingerie

Bottom: Fuzhu = Dried bean curd sticks

Middle (color): Chinese characters from a label

Fuzhu = Dried bean curd sticks (dried tofu sticks)

Right side: Japanese characters

Top: Yuba (hiragana)

Bottom: Yuba (kanji = "hot water" + "leaf")

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 3

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

Contents

Page

Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4

Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5

About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 8

Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 9

How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 10

Full-Page Graphics ................................................................................................................................................. 12-16

History of Yuba: 733 References in Chronological Order ......................................................................................... 17

Contains 64 Photographs and Illustrations

Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 369

Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 418

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 4

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting people from around the world who share a common interest, and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out: University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois

Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey.

Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller,

Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman.

Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special help on Slavic-language documents. National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann,

Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson,

Tanner Wray.

Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache.

Lane Medical Library at Stanford University.

Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry

Cartmill, Linda Barbero.

Harvard University's Five Botanical Libraries (especially

Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas.

French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early

1980s.

DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in collecting the documents, building the library, and producing the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li,

Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman,

Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn

Hsu, Brooke Vittimberga.

Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Maryland. And to Lorenz K. Schaller of Ojai, California. Ñ For outstanding help on this yuba book we thank: Minh Tsai (of Hodo Soy Beanery), Ken Lee (of Soyfoods of America), Linda Barber; Tomoko Brandemuhl, Dana Jacobi, Vitali Kim, Takuji "Tak" Kimura, Dixie Mahy, Toshie Marra, Andrea Nguyen, Hoang Quoc Nguyen, Valerie Robertson,

Miyoko Schinner, and Clarence Yee.

Ñ Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Ñ This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject.

This book is dedicated to Ken Lee (of Soyfoods of

America). Lawrence C. Wu (yuba researcher), and Minh Tsai (of Hodo Soy Beanery) - pioneer yuba manufacturers and educators in the United States.

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 5

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

INTRODUCTION

What is yuba?

If you have ever simmered a pot of milk over very low heat or set a bowl of hot milk aside to cool, you have no doubt noticed the thin, delicate Þ lm that soon forms on the milk's surface. The longer it is allowed to set, the Þ rmer and thicker it becomes. And if you have ever tried lifting this Þ lm off and tasting it, you may well have found it to be soft, warm, and delicious. In the same way, if fairly thick soymilk is gently heated in ß at and open pans at about 80-90°C, a thin cream-yellow, water-insoluble Þ lm soon covers its surface. In Japan this Þ lm is called yuba, and since ancient times it has been considered a true delicacy. Removing the Þ rst Þ lm from the soymilk surface (by carefully inserting a long skewer or shaft beneath it, then hanging it up to dry) makes way for the rapid formation of the next Þ lm. Many Þ lms can be removed from the surface and hung up to dry. The Þ rst Þ lm removed is generally considered to be the highest quality and the last the lowest. Yuba is also nutritious, containing 55% protein and 25% vegetable oil on a dry weight basis. Yuba is easily prepared at home, and since it is best when fresh and warm, yuba made in your own kitchen and served as an hors d'oeuvre or as part of a meal will have a tenderness and fragrant richness that can far surpass that of the yuba ordered from even the Þ nest traditional shops.

In what countries is yuba widely used?

Yuba is used throughout East and Southeast Asia but it is made and used most widely in China, where it is relatively inexpensive.

One traditional and very popular form of yuba,

especially in China, is dried yuba sticks. The dried sticks have long had the great advantage that they can be kept or stored for months at air temperature with little or no loss in quality or ß avor. Their name in pinyin is fuzhu and in Wade- Giles fu chu. The Þ rst Chinese character is the fu in tofu. The second means "bamboo," because the shape and color of this dried yuba reminds one of a tan bamboo shoot. Dried yuba sticks are made only in areas of Chinese culture - not in Japan. In Japan, yuba is more of a specialty, elite, expensive food; the center of yuba culture is Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan. Yuba is also fairly well known in Vietnam, etc. Why do we call it "yuba" instead of "bean curd skin"? In China, where it probably originated and is still most widely used, yuba is typically called doufu pi ("bean curd skin") although it is also occasionally called doufu-yi ("bean curd robes / lingerie"). On the English-language menus of Chinese restaurants in the United States, yuba is generally

called "bean curd skin" - an extremely unappetizing and inaccurate term. Yuba is not the skin of tofu. It no longer

has anything to do with tofu, except that both are made from soymilk. In Japan today the word "yuba" is written either with two Japanese hiragana characters or with the two Chinese (kanji) characters that mean "hot water" + "leaf." In 1843 these two kanki characters were Þ rst used to mean yuba in the Tsukue no Chiri. The twin facts that (1) the word "yuba" is written in Japanese hiragana script, and that (2) the Japanese do not presently use the traditional Chinese characters ("bean curd" + "skin") suggest that the Japanese may have developed yuba before they learned about it from China. Why not call it "tofu skin"? First, yuba no longer has anything to do with tofu. Second, the word "skin" is not appealing or appetizing in English. Third, "tofu skin" can be confused with "pressed tofu sheets." Fourth, as of Nov. 2012, the term "tofu skin" has almost never been used historically.

It appears only twice in the body of this book.

Our philosophy of naming foreign foods: Our main

purpose in giving English-language names to Asian soyfoods is to try to help them become part of the English language and English-speaking foodways. We look for a name that is appealing, descriptive (green vegetable soybeans, fermented black soybeans) or short (where there is no good English counterpart - tofu, miso, tempeh, yuba), and easy to remember. In addition to being short, we believe that the Japanese name "yuba" is elegant and easy to remember - as in Yuba City, Yuba County, and the Yuba River in California. Because the word "Yuba" already exists in English, the application of "yuba" to a food, invites curiosity.

Brief chronology / timeline of yuba.

1587 Jan. 24 - The earliest known reference to yuba,

worldwide, appears in Japan in the Matsuya Hisamatsu chakai-ki [Three-generation diary of the Matsuya family's tea ceremonies]. The writer at this time, Matsuya Hisamasa, states simply that yuba is the Þ lm that forms atop soymilk when it is heated.

1596 - The second earliest known reference to yuba,

worldwide, appears in China in the Bencao Gangmu [The great pharmacopoeia] by Li Shizen. This classic work was completed in 1578, but not published until 1596. So it could reasonably be argued that yuba was Þ rst mentioned in Chinese in this book. Chapter 25 states: If a Þ lm should form on the surface of soymilk when it is heated in the process of making tofu, it should be lifted off and dried to give doufu pi (literally "bean curd skin" [yuba]) which is itself a delicious food ingredient (First cited by Huang 2000, p. 303, 323).

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 6

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

Since the process for making yuba today apparently has nothing to do with the process for making tofu, we naturally ask: Why does the Chinese word for "yuba" mean bean curd skin? The earliest known answer appears in this book.

1695 - The third earliest know reference to yuba appears in

Japan in the Ben Zhao Shi Jian (Wade-Giles: Pen Chao Shih Chien) [A Mirror of Food in This Dynasty, 12 volumes]. The book is written by a Japanese man (Hitomi Hitsudai) in Japan, yet it is entirely in Chinese. When Japanese read the Chinese characters for yuba, doufu-lao, they pronounce them tôfu no uba. Lao or uba means "old woman" or "wet nurse."

1711 - The fourth earliest know reference to yuba appears in

Japan in the Wakan Sansai Zue [Collection of Japanese and Chinese diagrams and drawings of all things], by Terajima Ry¿an [40 books]. This is Japan's oldest encyclopedia. The section on yuba states: "Tofu Þ lm is made on the surface while making tofu. It looks like yellow paper. If you stir too much, the Þ lm will not form properly. If you wish to obtain the Þ lm, add coagulant and boil the milk. The wrinkled look of the Þ lm resembles (the skin of) an old woman. If you remove too much Þ lm, the yield of tofu decreases and the tofu becomes hard to eat." Yuba is referred to as doufu-pi, the present Chinese term. When the text notes that yuba "resembles (the skin of) an old woman," it seems to imply that the earlier term lao or uba was used because of the similarity of yuba and an old woman's face. Once again we see expression of the deep and ancient connection between making bean curd (tofu) and making bean curd skin (yuba).

1790 - Yuan Mei, the famous Chinese gourmand, poet,

and man of letters, in his classic book Suiyuan Shidan [Recipes from the Sui Garden] includes a recipe (apparently vegetarian) for "Mock roast goose made with yam wrapped in doufu pi"[yuba].

1813 - The Kyǀnan rubetsu-shi (Japan) is the earliest

document seen that contains the word yuba. The Þ rst character, yu, written the same as it is today, means "hot water." The second character ba meaning "old woman," is different from the character used today.

1819 Feb. - Yuba is Þ rst mentioned in an English-language

document - The Port Folio, a periodical published in Philadelphia and London. It states: "The Chinese make great use of beans, not only to feed their sheep and cattle, but also as food for themselves, in what they call,... foo chack... [dried yuba sticks].

1858 April - Dried yuba sticks are now being exported from

Hong Kong to Australia - where they are advertised and sold as "Beanstick." This is the earliest known document showing yuba in international trade.

1866 Oct. -Yuba is Þ rst mentioned in French in an article

by Paul Champion titled "On the production of tofu in China and Japan." He says (in translation): In the process of making tofu, the hot soymilk is poured into a second tub and allowed to cool before the coagulant is added. The foam is removed using a copper scoop. After several minutes, a skin / Þ lm (une peau) [yuba] forms on the surface of this liquid. It can be lifted off by passing a stick (baguette) underneath it and hung up to dry by inserting one end of the stick into one of many holes that have been deliberately created in the wall. This Þ lm, by the way, has a rather agreeable taste, and is eaten either fresh or dried; a second Þ lm is often formed and is lifted off in the same manner. Champion is yet another writer to point out the deep, traditional connection between bean curd (tofu) and bean curd skin (yuba). At least 8 other writers, worldwide, would repeat this basic idea of how yuba is made in future.

1870 Jan. 2 - The New York Times, in an article titled "The

Chinese," explains how about 250 Chinamen have arrived to work on a railroad in Texas. It was found necessary to establish a store in the vicinity of the place of labor. As a result of negotiation, the following goods were bought in Texas: "foo chuck, or bean curd sticks [dried yuba sticks],

10 boxes, or 400 pounds;... 10 boxes soy [sauce], 10 jars

catsup,..." "The men are to receive $30 coin per month."

1874 - Yuba is Þ rst mentioned in a German-language

document - in an article by H. Ritter in which he refers to it as Das Uba.

1918 March - Arao Itano, in an article on "Soy beans

(Glycine hispida) as human food," gives the earliest known description of how to make yuba at home - published in English in Massachusetts Agricultural Experiment Station, Bulletin No. 182. Unfortunately his description is too vague to be practical.

1923 - In their classic, The Soybean, Piper and Morse

publish the earliest known photograph of yuba being made commercially. They also give the earliest known practical and useful description of how yuba is made on a commercial scale (p. 246).

1926 April 3 - The earliest known article about how to

make dried yuba sticks (fu chu) is published in the Chinese

Economic Bulletin (p. 179-80).

1965 - William Brandemuhl, who studies soybean utilization

in Japan for two years after World War II, gives the earliest

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 7

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

known industry and market statistics for yuba in any country worldwide, in his unpublished book Soybean Utilization in

Japan.

1970 - The earliest known scientiÞ c study of yuba (in any

country) is conducted by Mr. L.C. Wu of the Department of Food Science at the University of Florida (Gainesville). He wrote his MS thesis on yuba: Lipid-Protein Films for Human

Consumption.

Wu (1972a,b, 1973) and Bates and Wu (1975), both in the same department, published subsequent detailed studies of methods for increasing the yield and quality of yuba, and of the basic endothermic polymerization involved in yuba formation.

1975 Dec. - In The Book of Tofu, in a long chapter about

Yuba in Japan, Shurtleff & Aoyagi give: (1) The earliest known useful and detailed description of how to make yuba at home. (2) The earliest known description in English of the many types and varieties of yuba in Japan. (3) A detailed description of yuba in China.

1979 July - In the book Tofu & Soymilk Production, in a

long chapter about Yuba, Shurtleff & Aoyagi give the most detailed and complete description seen to date of how to make yuba on a commercial scale.

1980 spring - The Soy Plant in Ann Arbor, Michigan, is

the Þ rst company in America to make ready-to-eat yuba delicacies. Jura McDowell, a black member of the group, developed Yuba Rolls, using yuba made on a kitchen scale. It was cut into 3½ by 5-inch rectangles, Þ lled with seeds, sauteed vegetables, and seasonings, then rolled tightly.

1982 Feb. - Soyfoods of America, in Duarte, California

(near Los Angeles), opens the Þ rst yuba manufacturing company in the Western world. The owner, Mr. Ken Lee and his technical director, Lawrence Wu, both Chinese Americans, build a very modern, semi-mechanized plant, drawing on Wu's research in modernizing yuba production. Their main market is Chinese restaurants nationwide.

1982 April - Shurtleff and Aoyagi Þ nish writing "History

of Yuba" (15 pages, unpublished). Worldwide in scope and the Þ rst English-language history of yuba, it now appears on their website.

2004 May - Basic Soy Beanery (renamed Hodo Soy

Beanery in Sept. 2005) starts making yuba and tofu in San Jose, California. Their Þ rst three yuba products are: Yuba (Tofu Skin), Soy Omelette (with Yuba), and Poached Yuba Loaf. In 2009 they moved into a new plant in Oakland, California, and in August began to make yuba there. Minh

Tsai, the founder, has been a pioneer in introducing yuba to Bay Area restaurants and consumers. He likes to call it "the

lingerie of tofu." Alphabetical list of names of yuba (useful for searching digital / electronic text):

Amayuba

Ama-yuba or ama yuba

Bamboo yuba

Beancurd skin(s)

Beancurd sheet(s)

Beancurd sticks(s)

Bean curd sheet(s)

Bean-curd skin

Bean curd robes

Bean curd sticks

Bean milk cream

Beanstick(s)

Bean sticks

Chinese beanstick

Com tam tau hu ki suon bi

Chinese beanstick

Dou fu bao

Doufu pi

Doupi

Dried bean curd stick(s)

Dried bean milk cream

Dried bean milk cream in tight rolls

Dried bean milk cream rolls

Dried Chinese beanstick

Dried rolls of bean milk cream

Dried skin of bean milk

Dried soybean milk skin

Dried soymilk Þ lm

Dried tofu skin

Dried tofu stick(s)

Er chu

Film membrane

Fleshy skim from soymilk

Foo chook

Foo chuk or foo chuck

Fooh jook

Fresh tofu skin packets

Fuchu

Fu chu or fu-chu

Fu jook pei

Fu pi chi

Futomaki-yuba

Fuzhu

Han-gawaki yuba

Hira-yuba

Hoshi-yuba

Kanso-yuba

HISTORY OF YUBA - THE FILM THAT FORMS... 8

Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center

Kirehashi yuba

Kiri-komaki yuba

Kiyuba or ki-yuba

Kuzu-yuba

Komaki yuba

Lipid Þ lm

Lipid-protein Þ lm(s)

Maki-yuba

Mimi

Musubi-yuba

Nama-gawaki yuba

Nama yuba or nama-yuba

Oharagi yuba

Omaki-yuba

Phu chuc

Protein Þ lm

Protein-lipid Þ lms

Skim from soymilk

Skin of bean curd

Skin of bean milk

Skin of bean milk cream

Soybean Þ lm

Soybean milk clot

Soybean milk skin

Soymilk Þ lm

Soymilk sheet

Soymilk skin

Soy skin

Suhuo-t'ui

Su ngo

Taira-yuba

Tau hu ky

Tau hu ky kho

Tau hu ki tuoi

Tender ß eshy skim from soymilk

Tien chu

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