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PORTUGALLOIRE VALLEY

VIN DE FRANCE

CORSICA

OTHER FRANCE

SICILY

PIEDMONT

LUXEMBOURG

GERMANY

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

ISRAEL

en-USMOLDOVA

AUSTRALIA

NEW ZEALAND

ARGENTINA

CALIFORNIA

OREGON

COLORADO

TEXAS

VIRGINIA

AMERICA

SPIRITS

BEER

BEBA73/GETTY

2017

Boats carrying wine on

the Douro River, Portugal FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS

BUYING

Continued on page 15

2 WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017

DOURO 95

Casca Wines 2012 Vinha das Lameiras

(Douro). Terroir is the key in this wine from a single parcel in the Douro. A field blend, it has more than 20 varieties in the mix. It is very Douro: structured, mineral and with initially austere fruit that broadens out. It is ready to drink from 2019.

Laurel Importers. - R.V.

abv: 14.5% Price: $80 94

Poças 2014 Símbolo (Douro). This is a major

Douro wine from the Poças family-owned

Port and wine producer. Dusty tannins already give it class as well as richness. Packed with black-plum fruits and with good concentration, the wine is still maturing. It needs to age further, so drink from

2019. Tri-Vin Imports. - R.V.

abv: 14% Price: $150 94

Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Carvalhas

(Douro). This is the top wine from a great estate. Situated in the heart of the Douro, the vines grow around a conical north- and east-facing hill. The wine was foot stomped in lagares and then aged in new wood. The result is a rich wine with mint, spice, black plum and dark damson flavors. It is still young, ready to age. Drink from 2020. Saranty

Imports. - R.V.

abv: 14% Price: $90 93

Poças 2015 Poças Reserva (Douro). Pro-

duced from old vines planted in the heart- land of the Douro vineyards, this wine is intense and structured, with swathes of black fruits and big tannins. The fruit has the weight to balance with the wood aging and the structure, but it all needs more time. Drink from 2019. Tri-Vin Imports. - R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60 93

Quevedo 2014 Q Grande Reserva (Douro).

Aged for 14 months in large new-wood bar-

rels, this wine from the Quevedo siblings is lush and generous, with swathes of ripe, rich fruit. Firm tan- nins promise further aging, while the juicy fruiti- ness shines strongly. Drink from 2019. P.R. Grisley

Company. - R.V.

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 93

Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Tinto (Douro).

This rich wine is concentrated and ripe

with black fruits and juicy acidity. With its density, fruits, wood-aging and complex texture it provides a beautiful example of a Douro blend. Minerality in this still-young wine comes through strongly. Drink from 2019. Grape Expectations (CA). - R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 93

Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Carvalhas Touriga

Nacional (Douro). A selection of Touriga

Nacional, this was foot-trodden in open lagars.

That gives a richness and smooth density to this

stylish wine, adding to its concentration and pow- erful black fruits. It is solid with tannins that needs to age further. Drink from 2020. Saranty Imports. - R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 93

Quinta do Sagrado 2011 Reserva (Douro).

From a great Douro vintage, this is a ripe

wine, packed with generous fruit and concentrated tannins. Berry flavors and juicy acidity dominate a wine that has plenty of power while keeping ele- gance and stylishness. Drink now. Skurnik Wines,

Inc. Editors' Choice. —R.V.

abv: 13.5% Price: $23 93

Quinta do Sagrado 2009 Grande Reserva

(Douro). Fermented in open stone lagars, this wine has the typical opulent structure that comes from this time-honored technique. With its dark tannins and concentrated black fruits, this wine, dominated by Touriga Nacional, is ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. - R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29 93

Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Quinta de Fafide

12 Barrels (Douro). This wine is the result

of a selection of 12 barrels that were chosen aer aging. It is rich, smooth and concentrated, with powerful tannins behind the ripe texture and gener- ous blackberry fruits. It needs to age further; drink from 2019. MS Walker. - R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 93

Rui Roboredo Madeira 2013 Castello d'Alba

Limited Edition (Douro). This eld blend has

rich tannins and concentrated new-wood aging fla- vors. Ripe, generous mint and black-plum fruits are powered by the dark, firm texture. It demonstrates great style as well as powerful fruit and tannins.

Drink from 2018. MS Walker. - R.V.

abv: 14.5% Price: $37

PORTUGAL

B ig, bold reds are a specialty of Portu- gal. While there are great warm-hearted ofierings from the southern Alentejo, the best examples come from the two north- ern regions of Douro and Dão, which specialize in the country's star grape, Touriga Nacional.

The two regions are situated within 50 miles

of each other, yet their styles are quite distinct. The Douro, also home to Port wines, produces reds that are luscious, concen- trated and dense. The best exam- ples have a line of flrm tannins that allows them to age for 10-15 years or more. The Dão, with its granite soil, produces wines that are driven by minerality and structure. They age equally well, always preserving a flrm and solid core.

In the 20 years that I have been following

Portugal, the best winemaking traditions, some

of which date back to the Roman era, have been maintained. However, alongside these tradi- tions have been advancements in vine growing and winemaking, which have brought Portugal into the modern era.

In the Douro, many of the top still reds

come from the great traditional Port produc- ers, such as Quinta da Romaneira, Poças and

Quinta da Carvalhas. The Dão, held back for

years by the dominance of under funded coop- eratives, has blossomed as talented produc- ers like Casa Anadia and Casca Wines have realized the potential of this mountainous area.

These two wine regions

are featured strongly in this month's Buying Guide. Portugal continues to astonish thanks to the increasing quality of its wines and their terriflc value.

There are not many wine coun-

tries where you can buy such impressive wines for under $30.

Beyond Portugal in this issue's Buying

Guide, we review hundreds of Old World wines

from France, Italy, Germany and more. For New

World selections, you'll flnd plenty of reviews

from Argentina, California and Oregon. And, as always, be sure to check out our complete database, with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com - Roger Voss

There are not many

wine countries where you can buy such impressive wines for under $30.

WINEMAG.COM |

Hors Categorie 2014 Syrah (Walla Walla Val-

ley). This is a new project from Christophe

Baron. The aromas pop, with notes of earth, plum,

nori, iron, sea salt, herb, olive tapenade, black pep- per and smoked meat. The palate is concentrated and structured, with rich yet restrained bacon fat and smoke flavors that bring a sense of vibrancy and richness along with a near endless finish. It brings a fair amount of tannic he? that will benefit from some additional time in the bottle. Best from 2024-

2028. Cellar Selection. - S.S.

14.1% $240

Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Estate Vine-

yard Etzel Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge).

Named a?er neighboring winery owner Mike Etzel

(Beaux Frères), this exceptional wine is brilliantly focused and rippling with muscular depth. The pal- ate is etched with blackberry and black cherry fruit, immersed in lush vanilla, coee and caramel tones. It's instantly gratifying, impossibly seductive and exceptional in every way. Editors' Choice. - P.G.

14.5% $60

Trisaetum 2016 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry

Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Stunningly good,

this hits you with waves of fruit, acidity and spice.

It reverberates across, down and through the pal-

ate, recalling clover, citrus zest and grapefruit, all underlaid by bracing minerality. Editors' Choice. - P.G.

13.2% $32

Cattleya 2015 Cuvée Number One Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). From the Lake-

view Vineyard in Green Valley, this deeply concen- trated bottling shows blackberry, crushed graphite, asphalt-laced gravel, dried violets and rose petals on the richly layered nose. The palate is so? and approachable, yet firm enough to ensure a long life, carrying flavors of elderberry, elderflower and a meaty richness. Drink 2018-2035. Cellar Selec- tion. - M.K.

14.2% $50

Eighty Four 2013 Malbec (Napa Valley).

Made by Elias Fernandez in partnership

with Doug Shafer, this red totally rocks in smoky toasted oak and a tease of char. Intense and electri- fying, it oers rich layers of dark cherry, clove and dried herb. It's bulky and substantial while preserv- ing a sense of grace, with a backbone of supportive refreshing acidity. - V.B.

15.1% $42

Horsepower 2014 Sur Echalas Vineyard

Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas

explode with notes of potpourri, olive, smoked meat, fire pit, orange peel, mineral, mushroom, gar- rigue and white pepper. The palate is li?ed, bright but intensely flavored, loaded with flower, berry, olive and charcuterie flavors. The finish seems near endless and the sense of balance is exquisite. It's shockingly good. - S.S.

13.5% $120

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine"s editors and other qualied tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Coordinators Carrie Dykes and Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jens- sen, Joe Czerwinski and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O'Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Con- tributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster's ini- tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5-8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context - vintage, variety or appellation - but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. Ratings reect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product's special characteristics.

The pinnacle of quality.

A great achievement.

Highly recommended.

Oen good value; well recommended.

Suitable for everyday consumption;

o?en good value.

Can be employed in casual, less-

critical circumstances. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. Editors' Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys a?er surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-quotesdbs_dbs24.pdfusesText_30

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