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SHUTTERSTOCK

OCTOBER

Syrah grapes in Boushey Vineyards in

Yakima Valley, Washington

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS

BUYINGGUIDE

GUIDE S yrah's ascension in Washington State has been swi?. First planted in 1986 at Red

Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley, the

grape almost immediately garnered atten tion, with high-quality bottles from the likes of

McCrea Cellars and Glen Fiona in the 1990s.

Come 1997, Frenchman Christophe Baron

planted the ?rst in a series of vineyards on an ancient cobblestone river bed in Walla Walla Valley. At

Cayuse Vineyards, Baron for

ever changed Syrah's fate in the state, putting a focus on single- vineyard, terroir-driven wines.

Two years later, K Vintners from

Winemaker Charles Smith had

its ?rst o?erings.

The success of these early

advocates and others launched an entire indus try. Washington Syrah production was not even tracked until 1999. Today it is the third most produced red variety in the state and makes many of the region's best wines.

The road to Syrah's coronation in Washing-

ton has not been without speed bumps, how- ever. As producers jumped on the bandwagon in the early 2000s, many made wines of medi- ocre quality. Others that largely focused on Bor deaux varieties found Syrah a tough sell. Some growers and winemakers began to explore other grapes in the state, which now has more than

100 varieties planted. Meanwhile Cabernet

Sauvignon production surged, leaving Syrah in

the rearview mirror.

Though Washington Syrah

has yet to gain the broader con sumer awareness it deserves, growers and vintners continue to explore the variety's full potential. Today's wines show great finesse and diversity, with plentiful appellation and vineyard- driven dif ferences.

While Cayuse's Walla Walla

Valley o?erings still set the standard for qual

ity, other producers are now exploring areas like

Horse Heaven Hills, Royal Slope and the upper

reaches of Red Mountain with thrilling results.

King Cabernet will likely always dominate in

a state where it makes up nearly 30% of pro duction, but look just o? right and you will ?nd

Syrah as Washington's queen. - Sean P. Sullivan

Get to know Syrah

WASHINGTON

It is the third most

produced red variety in the state and makes many of the region's best wines.

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2021

93

MTR Productions 2016 Memory Found Syrah

(Walla Walla Valley).

Coming from the Rocks

District, this wine sees extended time in barrel

and bottle prior to release. The aromas bring the good old-fashioned funk, along with notes of tar, tapenade, potpourri, green olive and sea breeze. The palate is de? but shows plenty of intensity, linger ing for a long time on the tobacco-?lled ?nish. It's glorious.

Editors' Choice

. - S.S. abv: 13.6%

Price: $NA

93

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2018 Foothills

Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard

Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).

This wine comes from

a vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, a region few other producers have explored. The aromas are expressive, with notes of sea salt, olive brine, kelp, tapenade, smoked meat and peony. Pil lowy so?, lithe, sophisticated savory ?avors fol -low. It shows plenty of hang time on the savory and ?ower-?lled ?nish.

Editors' Choice

. - S.S. abv: 14.4%

Price: $90

93

W.T. Vintners 2018

Les Collines Vineyard

Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).

The aromas

erupt from the glass, with achingly pure, well- delineated notes of pomegranate, dried herbs, huckleberry and violet. On the palate, there is an immediately noticeable perception of lower alcohol, with the ?avors providing much of the feel, texture and structure. While it doesn't have the roundness that alcohol brings, there is no shortage of intensity and depth of ?avor. It's thoroughly fascinating and enjoyable to boot, needing food to be appreciated.

Editors' Choice

. - S.S. abv: 13.2%

Price: $49

92

Canvasback 2018 Red Mountain Syrah (Red

Mountain).

Canvasback is a Washington

o?ering from Napa Valley's Duckhorn. The aromas o?er notes of plum, ?ower and olive. The palate is rich, with seamless dark fruit ?avors that carry on the ?nish. It's a power-packed, no-holds-barred o?ering of this variety, high on the hedonism scale. - S.S. abv: 15.1%

Price: $55

92

DeLille 2018 Signature Series Syrah (Yakima

Valley).

Blue fruit aromas erupt from the

glass, followed by notes of huckleberry, spice, cof- fee and herb. It saturates the palate, covering it from end to end with blue and purple fruit ?avors that sail on the ?nish. It has a big-time yum factor, nearly irresistible, with fruit and barrel both play- ing big parts in the show.

Editors' Choice

. - S.S. abv: 14.9%

Price: $46

92

W.T. Vintners 2018

Boushey Vineyard Bird-

house Block Syrah (Yakima Valley).

Coming

from one of the most coveted spots of this esteemed vineyard, this wine boasts aromas that draw you in, with notes of pomegranate, black pepper, smoked meat, dark cherry, raspberry and wet iron. The pal ate is all about purity, with the alcohol pulled back and the ?avors in focus. - S.S. abv: 13.7%

Price: $49

92

W.T. Vintners 2018

Gorgeous Destiny Ridge

Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills).

This producer has been one of the wineries leading the way in exploring the potential for Syrah in the

Horse Heaven appellation. The aromas o?er high-

pitched notes of cherry, red fruit and sagebrush. The ?avors are de? and ?eet of foot but with plenty of depth and intensity. It requires food with it to be fully appreciated. Pair it with grilled lamb chops.

Editors' Choice

. - S.S. abv: 13.6%

Price: $35

92

W.T. Vintners 2018

Grande Cote Boushey

Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley).

This wine

comes from perhaps the most esteemed Syrah block in Washington. The aromas show dazzling purity, with notes of blue fruits, red fruits, dried herbs and spices. There's textural depth and purity to the smoked meat, medicine and savory ?avors, while it remains light on its feet. - S.S. abv: 13.8%

Price: $49

91

Foundation 2019 The Silence Rockgarden

Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley).

For full

review see page 15. abv: 13.5%

Price: $38

91

Gramercy 2018 Les Collines Syrah (Walla Walla

Valley).

This wine hails from one of the val

ley's top Syrah sites. Bright, fresh herb aromas are out front, along with violet. Beyond that are notes of whole orange, tobacco leaf and whi?s of smoked meat. The palate is elegant and sumptuous. Pair it with seared ?ank steak. - S.S. abv: 13%

Price: $60

98

Holdredge 2019 Pratt-Sexton Pinot Noir

(Sonoma Coast).

From the Pratt Vine

yard on Sexton Road, thus the name, this memo rable wine oflers a wealth of Ōavor and complexity.

Cherry and strawberry fruit provide a deceptively

light and fruity core beneath which lie forest and umami accents.

Editors' Choice

. —V.B. abv: 14.1%

Price: $54

98

Jean-Luc Colombo 2018 Vallon de l'Aigle

Syrah (Cornas).

Notes of charred earth,

salt and iron collide with piercing blackberry and plum in this opulent yet sharply filigreed Syrah. The producer's Ōagship Cornas, this bottling is made only in outstanding vintages from the free-run juice of low-yielding 70-year-old vines. Glossy and rich yet weightless and airy, it's delicious in youth but has decades of evolution ahead. Drink through 2040.

Taub Family Selections.

Editors' Choice

. —A.I. abv: 14.5%

Price: $272

98

Massolino 2015 Vigna Rionda Riserva

(Barolo).

Camphor, underbrush, spice and

brandy-soaked cherry are just some of the aromas you'll find in this gorgeous red. The full-bodied palate combines firmness with finesse, delivering raspberry compote, ripe Marasca cherry, licorice and tobacco Ōavors framed in assertive, fine-grained tannins. It's youthfully austere and needs time to fully develop but it's already impressive. Drink 2025-2035.

Vineyard Brands.

Cellar Selection

. —K.O. abv: 14.5%

Price: $194

97

Holdredge 2019 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley).

This vineyard is

among the best year a?er year across producers. Here, it lives up to every promise: tight and grippy at first, with perfumed layers of dark cherry, forest and textured tannin. It presents balanced richness and undeniable complexity, from hints of white pepper to nutmeg and cardamom shining through on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.4%

Price: $70

97

Holdredge 2019 The True Pinot Noir (Sonoma

Coast).

From the Seali? Vineyard, a high-

elevation site near Annapolis, this wine is perfumed and Ōoral. With a rich hit of red fruit on the front of the palate, it shows persistent accents of tea, clove and forest balanced by laser-sharp acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.4%

Price: $54

97

Shafer 2018 One Point Five Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Stags Leap District).

This is a mus

cular wine with a velvety backdrop—classic for the vintage and appellation. Silky tannins glide across a foundation of turned earth, crushed rock, clove and tobacco. The wine is hugely structured and grand. Dark plum, cherry and mocha Ōavors round out the profile. Enjoy from 2028-2035.

Cellar

Selection

. —V.B. abv: 15.3%

Price: $98

Buying Guide

Wine Enthusiast

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS

ABOUT THE SCORES

Classic 98-100:

Superb 94-97:

Excellent 90-93:

Very Good 87-89:

Good 83-86:

Acceptable 80-82:

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS

Editors" Choice

Cellar Selections

Best Buys

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW

winemag.com/ contact-us tastings@wineenthusiast. netThere is no charge for submitting products

LABELS

dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net winemag.com/ratings | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2021 96

At Large 2018 Amber Knolls Vineyard Cab-

ernet Sauvignon (Red Hills).

This big but

supple and saturated wine is densely packed with gorgeous avors of black currant, black cherry and dark chocolate that well up on the palate and linger nicely on the long nish. Impressive concentration is backed by rm yet ne-grained tannins for a sur prisingly velvety texture considering the sheer mass of the wine. Best from 2026-2036.

Cellar Selec-

tion . —J.G. abv: 14.7%

Price: $80

96

Brewer-Cli?on 2019

Hapgood Pinot Noir

(Sta. Rita Hills).

Fresh, crisp and engaging

aromas of wild strawberry, green peppercorn, bay leaf and pine needle are enlivening on the nose of this bottling. The palate works similar magic, pair ing fresh red cherries and raspberries with avors of incense and more peppercorn, proving intensely vibrant and utterly delicious. —M.K. abv: 14.5%

Price: $65

96

Daou 2018 Soul of a Lion Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Adelaida District).quotesdbs_dbs24.pdfusesText_30

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